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Welcome to our Nootka Trail Guide! This resource includes information and tips to help plan your adventure on Nootka Island. To skip to a specific topic of interest, use the quick links below for easier navigation.

Highlights
Overview
Map
Guide Book
Fees
Access
Air Nootka
MV Uchuck III
Shorebird Expeditions
Accommodations
Weather
Tides
Route
Campsites
Trip Reports

Highlights

Immersed in First Nations history. The Nootka Trail passes through the traditional lands of the Mowachaht/Muchalat First Nations. Making an effort to learn about their history encourages a respectful awareness and a richer hiking experience.
Beautiful wilderness camping. The main primitive campsites are located on gorgeous sandy beaches or clean pea gravel mounds. Calvin Falls is a highlight with its refreshing falls and tidal swimming creek. Evening sunsets are colourful and serene.
Fewer human encounters. The remote location of Nootka Island and the logistics of getting to the trailhead (seaplane or water taxi) means that fewer people hike this trail. One might travel the entire route and not see another human until Yuquot.
Frequent wildlife observations. Because fewer humans hike this trail, wildlife can be seen in their natural environment more often. Black bears, wolves, river otters, eagles, ravens, and sea birds are familiar friends along the way.
Majority of hiking on beach. More beach hiking means fantastic views, exciting terrain, fresh air, and better chances to see wildlife. The intertidal obstacles and shifting pebbles are challenging to hike on, but the rewards are endless for the eyes.

Overview

Mike did an excellent job of finding the best driftwood logs along the Nootka Trail. He insisted on frequent shade breaks and long drinks of water. Usually our best coastal wildlife sightings happened when resting…eyes on the ocean looking for whales, or towards the sky following the ravens.

Location: West Coast of Nootka Island, British Columbia, Canada
Recreation area: Outer Coast Nootka Island REC16199
First Nations: Mowachaht/Muchalaht
Distance: 37 km
Duration: Typically completed in 4-8 days, depending on fitness and desire
Difficulty: Complex coastal and rainforest terrain (someone in group should be experienced)
Open: Year round, services seasonal
Peak season: July to September
Permits: Trail passes payable to Mowachaht/Muchalaht
Fees: First Nations land crossings
Reservations: Recommended for floatplanes, water taxis, and MV Uchuck III
Pets: Not recommended
Maximum group size: Air Nootka = 6 in largest floatplane; MV Shorebird = 10 in water taxi
Trailheads: Starfish Lagoon, Tongue Point, Yuquot (Friendly Cove)
Shuttles: Air Nootka floatplane, Shorebird Expeditions water taxi, or MV Uchuck III ferry
Cable car crossings: None
Camping: 5 – 7 sites (water sources, no food caches)
Structures: Ropes
Major shipwrecks: Greek freighter Treis Lerarchi
Geologic features: Rock shelves, sea stacks, sandstone cliffs, headlands, water erosion
Wildlife: Gray whales, humpback whales, orcas, seals, sea lions, black bears, wolves, cougars, eagles, ravens, sea birds, river otters, slugs, intertidal animals
Weather: Heavy rain, cool temperatures, high winds, damp fog, sun
Hazards: Slippery roots, deep mud, steep slopes, washouts, blowdowns, fallen logs, tide problems, deep sand, pebbles, boulders, tidal shelves, rocky shorelines, impassible headlands, creek crossings, tidal creeks, tidal lagoons, tsunamis, rogue waves, floods, landslides
Emergency help: There is no cell phone service on Nootka Island (we carry satellite messengers and a satellite phone)

Map

The FMCBC Nootka Trail map is a good resource for an overview of the trip.

Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC (FMCBC) created, published, and distributed the Nootka Trail map, and promoted the conservation of West Nootka Island. This general interest map is not suited to navigation. Instead, it highlights special points of interest and offers tips to make your hike more enjoyable.

John Baldwin created an excellent topographic map of Nootka Island highlighting the Nootka Trail.

John Baldwin’s Nootka Island paper map is the best for navigation. The route is marked on a 1:50,000 scale topographic map and includes information on distances, campsites, tide cut-offs, sources of drinking water, and other interesting features.

Baldwin J. Nootka Island: A topographic route map for hiking Nootka Island off the west coast of Vancouver Island. Scale 1:50,000. John Baldwin. 2020. www.johnbaldwin.ca

Guide Book

We observed wolf tracks after starting our morning hike out of Calvin Falls. They were proven to be fresh as we saw the sea wolf around the first bend. After we crested a sandy, seaweedy beach bump, the skittish fellow bounded off down the bay and disappeared into the rainforest. There was no chance for a picture, but we had our eye camera!

We use two guidebooks to plan hiking trips on Nootka Island. Philip Stone and Tim Leadem each have detailed Nootka Trail chapters in their guide books. Pair these essential books with John Baldwin’s map for trip planning.

Leadem T. Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island: An updated and comprehensive guide to all major trails. Greystone Books. 2015. www.greystonebooks.com
Stone P. Coastal Hikes: A Guide to West Coast Hiking in British Columbia and Washington State. 1st ed. Wild Isle Publications. 2007. www.wildisle.ca

Fees

After one last scramble up a hill of pea gravel, the silent Nootka Trail Welcome Figure marked the end of our 41 km journey. Just beyond this wooden statue is the building where hikers pay their fee for crossing First Nations territory and for using the grassy Yuquot campsite.

Mowachaht/Muchalaht First Nation collects fees to hike through the Yuquot portion of the Nootka Trail. There is an additional $20 per group landing fee. Purchase your hiking passes online or have cash ready to pay the fees in Yuquot.

Adult ($50)
Youth ($25, 12 and under)
Senior ($25, 65 and over)

Access

Access to and from Nootka Island is by Air Nootka, Shorebird Expeditions, or the MV Uchuck III. The main staging areas are Gold River and Tahsis. One method is to charter Air Nootka from Gold River to Starfish Lagoon, hike the trail in the southeast direction, and get picked-up by the MV Uchuck III for a ride back to Gold River. Another option is to start in Tahsis, ride the Shorebird Expeditions water taxi to Tongue Point, and get picked-up by the water taxi in Yuquot (Friendly Cove) for a ride back to Tahsis. A third option is to take the Uchuck III from Gold River to Yuquot and yo-yo the trail, returning to Gold River on the Uchuck III. Reservations are highly recommended no matter which mode or combination you choose. Prices were accurate at the time we published this post, but may change anytime. Contact the service providers directly for current costs.

Air Nootka

Base: Gold River
Website: www.airnootka.com
Phone: 1-250-283-2255 (Toll free: 1-877-795-2255)
Email: info@airnootka.com

Air Nootka drops hikers off at the Starfish Lagoon trailhead in either the Cessna or the Beaver. Each flight is a charter, which means the cost is based on booking the airplane. There is no per person fare. It is possible to get picked up at Starfish Lagoon. This sometimes needs to be done in more than one trip due to the short “runway”. In this case extra charges will be incurred.

The Cessna 185 can take up to 3 passengers. It carries a total passenger and baggage weight of 700 pounds. The DeHavilland Beaver can take up to 6 passengers. It carries a total passenger and baggage weight of 1200 pounds. It is helpful to know your body weight and baggage weight at the time of booking, although there is a scale at the plane terminal for measuring weights prior to boarding.

Gold River to Starfish (Louie) Lagoon drop-off charter: $750.00 per Cessna run
Gold River to Starfish (Louie) Lagoon drop-off charter: $995.00 per Beaver run
Yuquot (Friendly Cove) pick-up charter to Gold River: $393.75 per Cessna run
Yuquot (Friendly Cove) pick-up charter to Gold River: $525.00 per Beaver run

At the time of booking your flight, Air Nootka will need:

Each passenger’s first and last name
Each passenger’s weight
A telephone contact number
A credit card number to hold the reservation

Air Nootka asks that if you are packing bear bangers, bear spray, or camp stove fuel, to have these items easily accessible as they need to be stowed in the float compartment for the flight. Air Nootka requires passengers arrive 45 minutes prior to departure to weigh packs, separate out dangerous goods, and pay for the flight.

After the floatplane lands in Starfish Lagoon and gets as close to shore as possible, you disembark into the water. Watch where you step as there really are starfish in Starfish Lagoon! The pilot will retrieve the backpacks from the cargo hold and pass them to hikers to carry ashore. The water can be anywhere from ankle to knee-deep. There is a small, wet beach at Starfish Lagoon where you can change from your water shoes into your hiking boats. There is nowhere to camp here. The rugged rainforest hiking starts immediately. It is about 45 minutes to the first camp at Third Beach.

Here are a few additional tips that we find helpful for a float plane journey with a water-exit:

Have your backpack packed and “hike-ready” before you arrive at the plane terminal. There is no time for disorganization as the pilot will want to do pre-flight preparations.
Make sure your trekking poles and boots fit inside your pack, or separate these items from your pack so they can be easily stowed under the seats.
Keep bear spray, bear bangers, and camp stovefuel in a separate bag for the pilot to stow in the float compartment.
Wear shorts and water shoes. We used Crocs which doubled as camp shoes. Swimsuits are not required.
Keep a pair of hiking socks near the top of your pack, or in an easily-accessible pocket, so you can put them on with your boots once your feet dry out.
Fill up your water bottles. There is no drinking water at Starfish Lagoon.

MV Uchuck III

Base: Gold River
Website: www.getwest.ca
Phone: 1-877-824-8253
Email: reservations@getwest.ca
Schedule

The MV Uchuck III is a 1942 converted minesweeper that ships cargo for communities in Nootka Sound and Kyuquot Sound. It also provides seasonal passenger services for hikers, kayakers, residents, and holiday cruisers. Booking the Uchuck III for passage back to Gold River is the perfect way to extend your Nootka Island adventure. There are excellent opportunities for marine wildlife sightings, especially whales and birds.

The vessel can take up to 100 passengers and carry 70 tons of freight. The Uchuck III has been nicely refurbished for a comfortable journey. There is a wood-finished lounge plus cafe with homemade food, books for sale, and walls covered in historic photos, nautical charts, and interpretive plaques. Plenty of open-air seating is available, either in quiet corners or in the middle of all the action. The crew is super-friendly and passionate about working on this historic ship.

Yuquot (Friendly Cove) to Gold River: $100.00 per adult / $64.00 per child (6-12)

Here are some additional tips to maximize your Uchuck III experience:

The Uchuck III does not sail to Yuquot every day. Check their seasonal schedule to plan your trailhead exit, otherwise you may be waiting for days.
On your last trip day, allow extra time to rest and explore Friendly Cove. From the lighthouse, dock, or beach you can watch the vessel on approach and observe the crew operate the massive windlass to transfer cargo.
Change into clean, dry clothes for a more comfortable voyage.
Before boarding, neatly load all loose gear into your backpack. Stow your hiking poles. We strapped our packs to a railing on the main deck, out of the way of crew and passengers.

Shorebird Expeditions

Base: Tahsis
Website: shorebirdexpeditions.com
Phone: 1-250-218-1145
Email: shorebirdexpeditions@gmail.com

The water taxi is an option for hikers who don’t want to use a floatplane. The MV Shorebird drops hikers off at Tongue Point and picks hikers up at the Yuquot (Friendly Cove) dock.

Tahsis to Tongue Point drop-off charter: $500.00 per run (max 10 passengers)
Yuquot (Friendly Cove) pick-up charter to Tahsis: $350.00 per run (max 10 passengers)
Fuel surcharge of $10 per passenger over five passengers per run

Here are some additional tips to maximize your Shorebird Expeditions experience:

Meet water taxi at the public dock below Sally’s Grill.
Park in the grassy area across the road from the public boat launch. Parking pass envelopes are in a wooden drop box under the public boat launch sign. Parking is $25/week, payable by cheque or cash inside envelope. Place tag on dashboard.
If parking is full across from the boat launch, try the Westview Marina or the Tahsis Recreation Centre for additional parking.
The landing at Tongue Point might be wet. Water shoes are recommended.

Accommodations

Buttle Lake Campground is a convenient place to car-camp near Gold River.

Gold River and Tahsis are the usual staging areas for the Nootka Trail. Accommodations in town are limited and book up quickly in the high season. There are a few options east of Gold River, including lodging and camping in Strathcona Provincial Park. Reservations are recommended.

Tahsis

Westview Marina & Lodge
Website: www.westviewmarina.com
Phone: 1-250-934-7672 or 1-800-992-3252
Email: info@westviewmarina.com

Moutcha Bay Resort
Website: www.nootkamarineadventures.com
Phone: 1-877-337-5464
Email: info@nootkamarineadventures.com

Gold River

Ridgeview Motor Inn
Website: ridgeview-inn.com
Phone: 1-250-283-2277 or 1-800-989-3393
Email: ridgeview395@gmail.com

The Lodge at Gold River
Website: thelodgeatgoldriver.ca
Phone: 1-250-283-2900
Email: steelhead@thelodgeatgoldriver.ca

The Gold River Chalet
Website: www.goldriverchalet.com
Phone: 1-866-450-2688
Email: goldriverchalet@cablerocket.com

Strathcona Park

Strathcona Park Lodge
Website: strathconaparklodge.com
Phone: 1-250-286-3122
Email: info@strathconaparklodge.com

Buttle Lake Campground
Website: bcparks.ca
Make a reservation online

Weather

A parhelion, commonly called a sun dog, is a bright spot on either side of the sun. Sun dogs are types of halos created by flat, plate-shaped ice crystals. The surfaces lie horizontally and display all the colours of the spectrum. This atmospheric phenomenon was a bonus to a sunset already made beautiful by soft clouds and tidal refections.

We study the weather before our trip using a few different resources. On trip we check the weather daily with a satellite messenger. You will be hiking in a temperate marine climate. Be prepared for all kinds of weather!

Tides

The most exciting tidal obstacle of the Nootka Trail is Tsa’tsil Lagoon. The volume of water changes dramatically in a short time. Plan your crossing carefully, or you may have to wait on the beach for the water to subside.

Tide problems along the Nootka Trail involve cliff cut-offs and tidal creeks or lagoons. We list the main ones, but other stretches may be problematic at higher tides depending on wind and waves. Beach terrain is rearranged every year from storm action. Plan accordingly by carrying tide tables and knowing how to use them. We use the Saavedra Islands – 08645 tide tables.

Skuna Bay east: 10 km
Calvin Creek: 12.5 km
Beano Creek: 22.5 km
Beano Bay east: 24 km
Tsa’tsil Lagoon: 32.5 km *

* Tsa’tsil Lagoon is the most significant tidal obstacle on the Nootka Trail. When the tide lowers, water rushes out of the lagoon and creates a strong current. When the tide rises, the outflow zone deepens. Depending on tidal phase and body height, your crossing could be anywhere from ankle-deep to waist-deep. Our groups have had to wait on the beach from time to time, having dinner on the west shore as the lagoon was too hazardous to hike through.

View updated tide tables for your trip dates:

Saavedra Islands – 08645 – 7 day and hourly prediction tide tables provide predicted times and heights of the high and low waters.

Route

There are many creeks to ford along the Nootka Trail. Some are low and easy, like this one, where rock or log-hopping was mostly possible. Others were deeper, or affected by the tides, and required the removal of our hiking boots. Trekking poles helped a lot with these slippery obstacles.

The Nootka Island Trail is a challenging coastal experience. Approximately 75% of the route consists of beach hiking and 25% is forest hiking. There is not much total elevation gain. The beach sections contain all the usual features: logs, deep sand, wet sand, pea gravel, pebbles, tidal shelves, sloped surfaces, seaweed, algae, boulders, creeks, rocky headlands, sandstone, tide problems, tidal rivers, and lagoons. All surfaces are potentially mobile and slippery like ice. The rainforest sections has its own challenges: steep overland stretches that required the aid of ropes, blowdowns to crawl over or under, bogs with knee-deep mud, slippery roots, limestone cliffs, and overgrown salal. The difficulty of this hike would increase with rain or wind. Forest entrances are marked with floats hanging from trees. There are no man-made wooden structures like bridges, boardwalks, or ladders. The Nootka Trail has a rocky gully at the end of the one-kilometre crescent beach east of Beano Creek camp. The gully floods with higher tides. There are two ropes to choose from, one up a smooth, mossy slope and one up a rockier section with more hand-holds. This slippery scramble can be avoided by taking the first forest bypass access a few hundred metres west of the gully. The bypass trail must always be used at higher tides to avoid cliff cutoff.

Campsites

Upgrades are coming to the most popular campsites on the Nootka Trail. Recreational Sites & Trails BC and the Mowachaht/Muchalaht First Nations are actively collaborating on land management and stewardship. Expect to see new infrastructure such as the green throne toilets in 2022 and maybe some food caches in the future.

Third Beach

After the floatplane drop-off, Third Beach Camp is about a 1 km rainforest hike south. The beach is long and sandy, with an excellent water source. Collect as far upstream as possible to reduce the chance of brackish water. It’s a good place to relax and camp for the first night, no matter what time you arrive. After set-up, there is the opportunity for a day-hike towards Tongue Point if the tides are in your favour. There is shipwreck debris from the Greek freighter Treis Lerarchi at Tongue Point. The largest camp area with the most driftwood furniture appears to be near the creek. There is a smaller area at the west end of the beach near the sea stack.

Skuna Bay

There is a camp just before the west entrance to Skuna Bay near a good water source. It is a decent place to stay if you didn’t have the energy to make it to Calvin Falls, if the tides are not in your favour to solve tide problem east of Skuna Bay, or if you had extra trip days to play with. Calvin Falls is the nicer camp if you have a choice between the two.

Calvin Falls

The camp at Calvin Falls is probably the best camp on the Nootka Trail. It sits in the middle of a spectacular sandy beach and is situated right at a gorgeous waterfall. The falls are the terminus of Calvin Creek which drains Crawfish Lake. After camp set-up, the sandy-bottomed pool beneath the falls is an excellent place for a swim. Collect fresh drinking water from the actual flowing falls to eliminate the possibility of a brackish sample. Calvin Creek and the pool flood with high tide. The creek should be forded as soon as it is safe. We forded the creek at the end of our hiking day and camped on the south side so we didn’t have to cross in the morning.

Beano Creek

The camp at Beano Creek is a welcome sight after hours of hiking along pea gravel. The creek is tidal and can only be forded when waters are low and safe. The camp itself is on a huge mound of clean pebbles that gets moved around and reconfigured by waves and storms. This camp is close to some private cabins so there may be other people already here. There is a side creek on the south shore upstream which is a good place to collect water. Beano Creek is considerably brackish and not good for drinking unless you go really far upstream.

Pocket Beaches

Between Beano Creek and Sunrise Beach are several possible camp spots with no particular names. These smaller pocket beach camps are not the nicest on the trail, but will definitely suffice. Some are near decent water sources. Callicum Creek is the best and most reliable source in this section of the Nootka Trail.

Sunrise Beach

The sandy beach 700 m southwest of Tsa’tsil Lagoon is a good stop if arriving late and you cannot cross the final tidal obstacle. The hiking distance to Yuquot is only a 3.5 km from here. There is a freshwater pond 100 m west of the beach that makes a creek during wet conditions.

Sea Stack Beach

The camp on Sea Stack Beach is lovely because you are close to Yuquot (1 km) and past the final tidal lagoon obstacle of Tsa’tsil. It is a fine spot to rest and recover on the final evening. A sea stack and a good creek mark the spot. The creek may disappear under the sand before meeting the ocean. There is a nice camp spot high on the pebble beach between the logs. There is also a more established space with driftwood furniture at the edge of the forest, should you prefer.

Trip Reports

Our favourite terrain on the Nootka Island Trail is hard-packed sand! There was no shortage of storm-tossed kelp and seaweed to navigate through. Thin clouds shielded us from the hot sun while we hiked these open beach sections.

Tongue Point to Yuquot – June 13-17, 2022
Tongue Point to Yuquot – June 26-30, 2021
Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – September 4-8, 2018
Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – August 4-8, 2018
Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – July 7-11, 2018
Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – August 22-26, 2017
Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – June 25-29, 2016

Tongue Point to Yuquot – June 13-17, 2022

The Shorebird Expeditions water taxi is an alternate mode of transportation to Nootka Island. This approach provides an eye-level opportunity to view thick kelp forests and curious marine life among the Nuchalitz Islands.

Distance: 40 km
Duration: 5 days
Peak: 44 m
Gain: 527 m
Route: CalTopo

I guided a super keen group of seven participants on the Nootka Trail June 13-17. We experienced epic weather, viewed amazing wildlife, and enjoyed the camaraderie, safety, and logistical advantages of a professionally guided trip.

Day 1: Tahsis to Third Beach

After disembarking the water taxi at Tongue Point, the coastal wilderness is everywhere. Our first careful steps navigated slippery rocks coated with kelp. The rusty shipwrecked Greek freighter – the Treis Lerarchi – is a feature of this approach.

Distance: 4.9 km
Duration: 2 h 41 min
Peak: 26 m
Gain: 87 m
Track: Suunto

We enjoyed a rare sunny morning in Tahsis and departed on the first Shorebird Expeditions sailing. We had glassy water all the way to Esperanza Inlet, weaving through the Nuchatlitz Islands and just clearing the sand bar at low tide. A short bumpy section across Nuchatlitz Inlet brought us to Tongue Point for a dry landing off the Shorebird ramp. We met a group of wildlife filmmakers at the Scout Camp. They informed us where several blinds were setup between Louie Lagoon and Second Beach. There was a rotting whale carcass surrounded by wolf tracks at Second Beach, where the wolves had been feeding on the dead meat. We arrived at Third Beach just in time for the first showers at noon. After setting up tents, everyone was keen to learn about rigging tarps with limited anchors. After such an early start, we had lots of relaxing with many afternoon naps!

Weather observations. Sky: clear-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 8.8-13.3ºC, Humidity: 70.0-92.5%, Wind: calm-light NW, Pressure: 1017.2-1021.3 mb.

Day 2: Third Beach to Calvin Falls

Tiny coastal waterfalls spilling out of Nootka Island forests are the most delightful surprises. Beautiful, cold, and melodious, these features provide welcome fresh water on hot, dry, exposed beaches.

Distance: 11.9 km
Duration: 5 h 16 min
Peak: 24 m
Gain: 49 m
Track: Suunto

We woke to clear skies and I shared the great forecast with the group. A high pressure ridge had settled in, bringing sunshine with a moderate NW breeze, and no precipitation. We got a decent 0815 h start and enjoyed the low tide route around the big sea cave from Third Beach to the waterfall beach. A larger group of ten young adults limited our chances of wildlife viewing. However, we saw lots of bear sign, including tracks and scat, strewn along the shoreline on approach to Skuna Bay. The smaller group behind us saw a black bear foraging in the kelp beds a couple hours later. We just made it past the Skuna tide obstacles with a 3.2 m water line and continued on under the spectacular sedimentary cliffs and beside two more waterfalls before arriving at the biggest waterfall at Calvin. The falls were roaring and we waited for the tide to recede before a fresh swim!

Weather observations. Sky: clear-few clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 7.5-15.2ºC, Humidity: 59.2-92.9%, Wind: calm-moderate NW, Pressure: 1021.5-1023.9 mb.

Day 3: Calvin Falls to Beano Creek

The topography of Beano Creek Camp is always a surprise. You never know how the wind and waves will rearrange the pebbles, and subsequently the creek. This breezy zone is the a perfect place to rest and dry gear.

Distance: 11.4 km
Duration: 4 h 31 min
Peak: 14 m
Gain: 19 m
Track: Suunto

Another dry start to the day. We were happy to pack moisture-free rain flies and tarps, making for an efficient departure. We successfully forded the Calvin crossing in knee-deep water. Trekking poles were helpful for extra stability in the swift current. The nice cameras were stowed in dry bags and backpack buckles were undone in case of a mishap. The hard sand beach section out of Calvin to Bajo Creek was spectacular during the negative low tide, exposing parts of the intertidal zone I’ve never seen before. Route conditions were excellent around Bajo Point. We saw two deer, the only mammals spotted today besides a mouse at camp. Apparently two wolves were spotted yesterday just NW of Skuna. The lack of mega fauna viewing has been replaced by lots of bird sightings. We arrived at Beano Creek in the early afternoon for freshwater swims and a campfire building workshop later that evening!

Weather observations. Sky: overcast-broken clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 9.4-15.9ºC, Humidity: 57.7-86.9%, Wind: calm-light N, Pressure: 1012.8-1021.8 mb.

Day 4: Beano Creek to Sunrise Beach

The challenges of Day 4 were rewarded with views from high, folded cliffs. The rock here is sharp, sticky, and textured. Several pocket beaches still remained between this strenuous obstacle and a restful night’s sleep.

Distance: 9.7 km
Duration: 8 h 49 min
Peak: 45 m
Gain: 302 m
Track: Suunto

The most challenging day so far included every type of coastal terrain. The 9 km journey had the longest inland rainforest sections and the most elevation changes. We departed Beano Camp at our usual time just after 0800 h and arrived at Sunrise camp almost nine hours later…1 kilometre per hour! Wildlife viewing included our first bear sightings of the trail. Three bears were spotted several hundred metres N of Beano Creek! After hearing other hikers’ experiences for the last few days, we were happy to see them. Bird viewing continued with lots of eagles and ravens, plus birds singing from early morning hours right to dusk.

Weather observations. Sky: overcast-broken clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 9.3-16.1ºC, Humidity: 69.9-89.5%, Wind: calm-light NW, Pressure: 1011.9-1014.6 mb.

Day 5: Sunrise Beach to Tahsis

Sunrise Beach is the place to camp if the Tsa’tsil Lagoon tidal problem is too high to cross. The views at breakfast are hard to beat! Only a short distance remained to Yuquot where our group boarded the water taxi back to Tahsis.

Distance: 4.1 km
Duration: 2 h 14 min
Peak: 25 m
Gain: 70 m
Track: Suunto

Sunrise Beach lived up to its name with beautiful early morning light on the valley bottom clouds. Whales were spotted for the first time at breakfast. A couple of lucky whale watchers got to see a full breach! We started our final hike out of Sunrise Camp at 0800 h and took the low tide route all the way around to Tsa’tsil Lagoon, making an easy ford across on coarse sand. The sun was blasting for our final pea gravel hike until we finally made it to the cool forest shade along trail to Yuquot village. We couldn’t pass by Jewitt Lake without stopping for a fresh water swim. We visited the sites in Yuquot and boarded our Shorebird water taxi at 1200 h for a spectacular ride up Tahsis Inlet. We were happy to spot another bear feeding on the intertidal buffet and a huge raft of sea otters before reaching our starting point from five days ago. An epic Nootka Trail trip with all the fixings, including the best weather this season, great wildlife viewing, and an excellent group of keen adventurers to share it with!

Weather observations. Sky: clear-scattered, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 8.1-21.4ºC, Humidity: 54.0-91.9%, Wind: calm-light NW, Pressure: 1010.4-1014.0 mb.

Third Beach Camp has a beautiful source of fresh drinking water that winds out of the rainforest. The flow and depth of the creek’s sandy pathway changes with the seasons, but usually the crossing is easy.

We always encounter fascinating natural artifacts on complex beach sections. Sometimes large skeleton pieces, like these whale vertebrae, break up the long piles of bleached eelgrass and pebbles.

Mike knows all the best spots to take a break! The small pocket beach at the base of a small limestone cliff was a welcome place to have a snack. A cool waterfall behind us offered fresh water.

The tough rainforest sections of the Nootka Trail are punctuated with breezy, spectacular viewpoints. These spots are perfect for a quick rest and scan for whales. At some point along the way, Vancouver Island comes into view.

Tongue Point to Yuquot – June 26-30, 2021

The Nootka Trail Welcoming Figure was a happy sight for our group. Cooler temperatures after a heat wave week made for a pleasant and restorative trip finale.

Distance: 40 km
Duration: 5 days
Peak: 44 m
Gain: 506 m
Route: CalTopo

This trip was MB Guiding’s first adventure on the Nootka Trail in two years! The trail was closed to guided trips for all of 2020. Starting and finishing in Tahsis, we combined two Shorebird Expeditions water taxi rides with a five day hike to circumnavigate Nootka Island. We explored a new route from Tongue Point, eventually joining the main trail at Third beach and adding an extra 4 km to the trip.

Weather

The final stretch of the Nootka Trail does is not easy hiking. Even though our legs and feet were refreshed by the cool Tsa’tsil Lagoon crossing, the relentless pebbles claimed our last bits of energy before supper.

We started our trip during the peak of the June heat wave. The blazing heat made for a challenging hike. Temperatures ranged from the mid-teens to the high thirties. We enjoyed the refreshing water taxi ride on Day 1. Calvin Falls was a welcome reward and remedy after a hot Day 2 on the beach. Swimming was the first action upon arrival to camp. It was 32°C at sunset in the Beano Creek forest camp on Day 3. Marine layer rolled in off the ocean during the middle of night and cooled down camp by 15ºC. Day 4 delivered the most pleasant temperatures for our final hike to the Sea Stack Beach campsite.

Day 1: 0850 h, Tahsis Dock. Elevation: 4 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 20.3ºC, Humidity: 71.6%, Wind: calm. 1630 h, Third Beach. Elevation: 6 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature:21.4ºC, Humidity: 62.7%, Wind: calm.
Day 2: 0605 h, Third Beach. Elevation: 6 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 16.8ºC, Humidity: 86.4%, Wind: calm. 1430 h, Calvin Falls. Elevation: 6 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 29.4ºC, Humidity: 39.0%, Wind: light NW.
Day 3: 0505 h, Calvin Falls. Elevation: 7 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 18.3ºC, Humidity: 71.6%, Wind: calm. 1435 h, Beano Creek. Elevation: 7 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 32.7ºC, Humidity: 42.1%, Wind: light NW.
Day 4: 0525 h, Beano Creek. Elevation: 7 m, Sky: overcast, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 15.3ºC, Humidity: 87.6%, Wind: light SE. 1935 h, Sea Stack Beach. Elevation: 6 m, Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 19.8ºC, Humidity: 70.0%, Wind: light S.
Day 5: 0500 h, Sea Stack Beach. Elevation: 6 m, Sky: broken clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 17.2ºC, Humidity: 77.2%, Wind: light SE.

Route

On Day 1 we enjoyed an awesome first voyage with Shorebird Expeditions. The water was glassy leaving Tahsis. We motored through Esperanza Inlet, around Nootka Island, and through the Nuchalitz Islands Provincial Park. Our boat passed several kayaks and a few lazy sea otters. Open water brought a 2 meter swell with cooling sprays over the bow! Our team arrived at Tongue Point and disembarked onto Nootka Island. The hike on mudflats was nice and gentle for our warm-up. On Day 2, we walked the low tide route from Third Beach and visited a massive sea cave. The inland sections were bone dry and easy going through the freshly brushed paths. Our group needed many shady rest breaks with fresh water refills and snacks. On arrival at Calvin Falls, we spotted several planes on the beach – a flying club from the mainland. After swimming, we created shady rest spots with tarp school and waited for heat to dissipate. On Day 3, we arrived at Beano Creek just after noon. The group maintained a solid pace by taking breaks in shady areas and at every water source. Staying well-hydrated (at camp and on the trail) and sun-protected were top priorities on this trip. Highlights of the day included visiting the Aass village site and a waterfall oasis. We enjoyed an enhanced interpretive tour with one of our trip participants, an archeologist who presented an annotated map of ancient sites. Day 4 was a big day of hiking, but temperatures had cooled. Our group started the morning with an easy ford of Beano Creek and low tide options. Easy trails, clear water refills in Callicum Creek, plus two more low tide routes made for pleasant travel. We arrived at the Tsa’tsil Lagoon crossing just in time with a 2.2 m tide. Everyone forded successfully in knee- to waist-deep water. We made our way to Sea Stack Beach, enjoying our second floatplane airshow from camp. Our final dinner was spent watching for whales. On Day 5, everyone was keen to swim in Jewitt Lake before an easy 1.2 km hike out to the dock and Shorebird Expeditions water taxi pickup.

Day 1: Tongue Point to Third Beach. Distance: 5.51 km, Duration: 2:39’25, Ascent: 71 m, Ascent Time: 27’13.0, Descent: 62 m, Descent Time: 24’43.0. Suunto
Day 2: Third Beach to Calvin Falls. Distance: 12.76 km, Duration: 5:09’19, Ascent: 42 m, Ascent Time: 14’06.0, Descent: 40 m, Descent Time: 16’05.0. Suunto
Day 3: Calvin Falls to Beano Creek. Distance: 11.44 km, Duration: 4:24’59, Ascent: 3 m, Ascent Time: 2’29.0, Descent: 9 m, Descent Time: 4’565.0. Suunto
Day 4: Beano Creek to Sea Stack Beach. Distance: 13.01 km, Duration: 7:51’59, Ascent: 289 m, Ascent Time: 1:45’55, Descent: 268 m, Descent Time: 1:30’15. Suunto
Day 5: Sea Stack Beach to Yuquot. Distance: 1.83 km, Duration: 1:00’36, Ascent: 26 m, Ascent Time: 1’43.0, Descent: 16 m, Descent Time: 5’59.0. Suunto

Wildlife

The Shorebird Expeditions water taxi drops hiker off at Louie Lagoon. In addition to a nice flat warm-up, we were greeted by a couple of howling, curious wolves.

The best sighting off the trip was a pack of wolves in the first kilometre of Day 1. We could hear and see the wolves across the mud flats playing and chasing each other. We paused to investigate the Greek freighter wreck and saw wolves disappear into forest. One wolf showed himself as we were moved by, howling and barking at us. His friend across bay howled as we watched. After about 30 mins, he went and joined the rest of pack. We saw lots of bear and wolf sign the rest of the way to Third Beach. In the evening, we enjoyed viewing whale spouts. On Day 2, we heard an abundance of Swainson’s thrushes singing in the early morning light. They would continue to function as our natural alarm clock for the rest of the trip. We passed a baleen whale carcass just north of Skuna Creek. The animal was very smelly and we had to put our buffs over our mouths down wind. On Day 3, wildlife included the tail end of a wolf scurrying off into the forest just south of Bajo Creek, several eagles, an osprey, and rich intertidal zones. Upon arrival at Sea Stack Beach campsite, we saw our first black bear.

Hazards

We hike with care along the intertidal shelves, both to avoid slipping and to observe tide pool life. During the intense heat of this trip, we also stopped for many breaks to rehydrate and cool down.

The main hazard of the trip was risk of heat exhaustion and dehydration due to the blazing heat. Frequent hydration, shade breaks, and slower pace were important strategies on the exposed beach sections. Swimming often was the cure at camp.

Pebble-strewn pocket beaches are beautiful jewels along the Nootka Trail. Our group would cool off in the forest sections, then brave radiation from hot stones in between.

Birds are guaranteed wildlife sightings on the Nootka Trail. Glossy, black common ravens were frequent companions, hunting the intertidal shelves for food.

The marine environment often showcases the endless cycle of life and death. Our group found a beached whale carcass at the tideline, waiting to skeletonize.

Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – September 4-8, 2018

Low tide sand bars are bliss for tired backpackers! Our team was very excited to end the day with this easy approach to Calvin Falls in the warm sunshine.

Distance: 36.2 km
Duration: 5 days
Peak: 45 m
Gain: 372 m
Route: CalTopo

Here is our third and final adventure on the Nootka Trail in summer 2018! This trip was a special small group experience. Our team included a returning alumna local to Vancouver Island, a world travelling fellow from Switzerland, and myself as the guide. We staged our adventure at the Ridgeview Motor Inn (Gold River) and held our pre-trip meeting the evening before departure. We were pleased to all fit inside the Air Nootka Cessna 185 for a fast and light approach to Starfish Lagoon. Weather on this trip was our greatest friend and foe. We planned accordingly, watched the weather reports, and stayed ahead of the gale. Wildlife highlights included: bears, whales, sea lions, and abundant intertidal animals. We viewed more black bears than hikers over the entire 36 km route!

Day 1: Starfish Lagoon to Calvin Falls

Nootka Trail comprises approximately 75% beach terrain and 25% forest terrain. Our first nice stretch of flat, packed sand in the sunshine was an excellent start to our day.

Distance: 12.9 km
Duration: 7 h 37 min
Peak: 43 m
Gain: 40 m

Our plan to stay ahead of the gale meant we had to hike all the way to Calvin Falls on our first day. Route conditions were excellent with hardly any mud. The route was even drier than our previous trip in August. We were happy to see five black bears just west of Skuna Creek. Two of these three bears were having a wrestling match as we passed by. We thought they might be siblings playing and practicing fighting. We had just viewed two other bigger bears not far away up the beach. We arrived to an empty campsite at Calvin Falls on Bajo Beach and enjoyed a beautiful evening all to ourselves.

Day 2: Calvin Falls to Beano Creek

The boulder terrain looked like multi-coloured dinosaur eggs in the southbound section towards Bajo Point. At higher tides, walking the logs is often a faster approach.

Distance: 11 km
Duration: 5 h 36 min
Peak: 5 m
Gain: 5 m

We got an early start out of camp under partly cloudy skies, following several sets of fresh wolf tracks along the beach. We arrived at Bajo Point mid-day to a colony of sea lions barking on rocks beside the sea stack. After an extended break on the logs, we explored the ancient village of Aass. We arrived at Beano Creek and viewed several humpback whales flapping their flippers and spy hopping. No other campers at Beano Creek!

Day 3: Beano Creek to Sunrise Beach

After hiking down from the limestone cliffs, a maze of rock leads hikers to another pocket beach. After a short break, more rope-work, overland sections, jungle, and beaches awaited our team.

Distance: 8.9 km
Duration: 9 h 41 min
Peak: 45 m
Gain: 293 m

The hike from Beano to Sunrise is was a long, challenging day on varied terrain. We always stop and fill our bottles with the nice clear water at Callicum Creek. The next best water fill is at the unnamed lake northwest of Maquinna Point a few hours away. The rock formations adjacent to the Maquinna Point coastline were impressive. We arrived at Sunrise Beach to set up camp and the group tarp. Priority one was to prepare for the incoming weather. The rain started at 2200 h, finally breaking the summer drought. The plants of the arid overland bog section were no doubt happy for the moisture.

Day 4: Sunrise Beach to Yuquot

The Nootka Welcome Figure greets tired hikers at Yuquot (Friendly Cove). Despite the rainy weather, our strong team was happy to accomplish this fantastic goal in late summer.

Distance: 3.4 km
Duration: 1 h 44 min
Peak: 21 m
Gain: 34 m

Our last few kilometres were especially slippery after the precipitation began. We forded Tsa’tsil Lagoon on a 1.5 m tide and walked through easily with boots and gaiters on. We were pleased to arrive in Yuquot one day ahead of schedule and negotiated a Yuquot Cabin for our final night. We attempted to check into cabin #6, however it was under construction. The stove and stove pipe were missing, leaving an open and leaking hole in the roof. We happily moved to cabin #3, which was also missing a stove but at least had a solid roof overhead. There was a lot of rain that night!

Day 5: Yuquot Village Day

When the MV Uchuck III is docked, the wooden pier is a buzz of movement and goods transport. Our final rainy Yuquot day did not dampen any spirits as we caught a quiet moment.

We woke in the cabin to dark grey skies and more precipitation but we were dry! The morning was spent organizing gear and exploring the village site, church, and museum. The Nootka Lighthouse was closed to the public while under construction. Many hiking parties arrived in the village. We had been a day ahead of them the entire trip. Our team heard several reports of a very wet evening out on the trail. We were again treated to more whales, and viewed a few humpbacks at the entrance to cove. Our final stage of the adventure was a ride with Get West Adventure Cruises on the refitted MV Uchuck III WW2 minesweeper. Hot soup and a homemade sandwich completed the trip!

Starfish Lagoon to Yuquot – August 4-8, 2018

Once the floatplane leaves Starfish Lagoon, the natural sounds of the wilderness fill the air. We started this trip on Nootka Island with blue skies, sunshine, and calm water.

Distance: 36.3 km
Duration: 5 days
Peak: 45 m
Gain: 379 m
Route: CalTopo

Our second trip of three in Summer 2018! This was a last minute custom trip, planned and executed in just one week. Weather was superb for all five days. We woke to marine fog each morning, and enjoyed hiking in the cool mist until it burned off in the afternoon. The lingering evening cloud wisps enhanced sunset colours. Crystal clear nights offered glittering star shows and Perseid meteor showers. Route conditions were very dry with minimal mud. Wildlife highlights included: black bears, wolves, sea otters, birds, and abundant intertidal life.

Day 1: Starfish Lagoon to Third Beach

Third Beach offers expansive white sand, tide pools in rocks, and an excellent water source. After our 1 km hike through the rain forest from Starfish Lagoon, we were happy to set up camp.

Distance: 1 km
Duration: 1 h 1 min
Peak: 15 m
Gain: 20 m

We met Scott and Greg at the Air Nootka dock and loaded our gear onto the Beaver at 0930 h. After a perfect landing in glassy water on Starfish Lagoon, we taxied to the shore and unloaded our gear onto the beach. The floatplane took off in a roar leaving the four of us on the beach in the wilderness silence. We adjusted our backpacks, and entered the rainforest route towards Third Beach. We spent the first hour of hiking on instruction, teaching terrain management, hazard awareness, and adjusting our equipment for the perfect fit. We arrived at Third Beach to glorious sunshine and shimmering white sand. As a bonus, there were no other campers! The rest of the afternoon was spent learning camping skills: setting up tents, throwing a food hang, rigging a kitchen tarp, and relaxing until dinner, sunset, and bed.