Welcome to our West Coast Trail Guide! This resource includes information and tips to help plan your adventure in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. To skip to a specific topic of interest, use the quick links below for easier navigation.
Table of contents
- Highlights
- Overview
- Map
- Guide Book
- Fees
- Access
- West Coast Trail Express
- Accommodations
- Weather
- Tides
- Route
- South to North vs North to South
- Campsites
- Trip Reports
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – May 1-4, 2023
- Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 14-20, 2022
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 31-August 6, 2022
- Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 24-30, 2019
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – June 23-29, 2019
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 11-17, 2018
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 7-13, 2017
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 23-29, 2017
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 5-12, 2016
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 17-22, 2015
Highlights
- World famous shared experience. Most people have heard of the West Coast Trail. You will share your adventure with enthusiastic hikers from all over the world. Some have travelled a very long way. Most have planned this bucket-list adventure for years. Parks Canada calls the West Coast Trail the Hike of a Lifetime.
- Incredible physical and mental challenge. The 75 km West Coast Trail has many natural and man-made obstacles. The unbelievable wooden ladder systems test your strength and courage. The slippery boulder fields and muddy roots keep you sharp. Being trained for these challenges helps make the trip more enjoyable and safe.
- Fascinating First Nations and European history. The Pacheedaht, Ditidaht, and Huu-ay-aht First Nations have lived and traveled the west coast for thousands of years prior to European contact. The Dominion Lifesaving Trail was constructed to help shipwreck survivors in the area. The modern West Coast Trail passes through this fascinating Graveyard of the Pacific.
- Remarkable natural wonders and wildlife. Even though this hike is busy and popular, wildlife is abundant. Black bears, whales, river otters, eagles, ravens, and sea birds are familiar friends along the way. Both the rainforest and seashore sections of the West Coast Trail inspire hikers to love and care for Pacific Rim National Park.
- Amazing geologic features. The beach sections of the West Coast Trail are unparalleled in scenery. Wide rock shelves, natural rock bridges, sea caves, coal seams, sea stacks, surge channels, sandstone cliffs, rocky headlands, water erosion are amazing geologic features that will bring out the rock hound in everyone.
Overview
- Location: West Coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
- Park: Pacific Rim National Park Reserve – West Coast Trail Unit
- First Nations: Pacheedaht, Ditidaht, and Huu-ay-aht
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: Typically completed in 6-8 days, depending on fitness and desire
- Difficulty: Complex coastal and rainforest terrain (experienced backpackers only)
- Open: May 1 to September 30
- Peak season: June 15 to September 15
- Permits: Required
- Total Fees: $248.50 per person to hike the trail end-to-end, plus National Park Entry Fees (Youth 17 and under are free for entry fees only)
- Reservations: Required for permits and shuttles
- Pets: Prohibited
- Maximum group size: 10 people
- Trailheads: Gordon River (Port Renfrew), Pachena Bay (Bamfield), Nitinat Village
- Ferry crossings: Two (Gordon River and Nitinat Narrows)
- Cable car crossings: Five creeks (Camper, Cullite, Walbran, Carmanah, Klanawa)
- Camping: 13 sites (12 with water sources, food lockers, and cedar-composting toilets)
- Structures: Ladders, cable cars, suspension bridges, boardwalks, docks
- Major shipwrecks: Approximately 24 sites
- Geologic features: Rock shelves, sea stacks, sandstone cliffs, sea caves, headlands, water erosion
- Wildlife: Gray whales, humpback whales, orcas, seals, sea lions, black bears, wolves, cougars, eagles, ravens, sea birds, river otters, slugs, intertidal animals
- Weather: Heavy rain, cool temperatures, high winds, damp fog, hot sun
- Hazards: Slippery roots, deep mud, steep slopes, washouts, blowdowns, fallen logs, tide problems, deep sand, pebbles, boulders, tidal shelves, rocky shorelines, impassible headlands, creek crossings, tidal creeks, tidal lake, tsunamis, rouge waves, floods, landslides, broken structures
- Emergency help:
- Parks Canada coordinates all emergency calls and safety protocols
- Follow the Evacuation Information Form issued with the WCT Overnight Use Permit
- Call 1-250-726-3604 (monitored 24 hours/day) or send written message for help
- Evacuation points are Thrasher Cove, Camper Bay, Cullite Cove, Walbran, Carmanah Light Station, Nitinat Narrows, Tsocowis Creek, or Pachena Light Station
- Get help from Parks Canada staff, First Nations Trail Guardians, lighthouse keepers, or ferry operators
Map
Parks Canada publishes a new West Coast Trail map every so often. You receive a paper copy after your orientation.
- Parks Canada. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. West Coast Trail Map . Bamfield to Port Renfrew, Vancouver Island.
The other essential publication is the Parks Canada West Coast Trail Hiker Preparation Guide. This document is updated every year and is required reading for trip planning and preparation.
- Parks Canada. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. West Coast Trail: 2023 Hiker Preparation Guide
Guide Book
We have used a few different guidebooks to plan trips on the West Coast Trail. Our favourite is Blisters and Bliss. The new 10th edition is now available!
- Foster D, Aitken W. Blisters and Bliss – A Trekker’s Guide to the West Coast Trail. 10th ed. B & B Publishing. 2022. blistersbliss.com
- Leadem T. Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island: An updated and comprehensive guide to all major trails. Greystone Books. 2015. www.greystonebooks.com
- Stone P. Coastal Hikes: A Guide to West Coast Hiking in British Columbia and Washington State. 1st ed. Wild Isle Publications. 2007. www.wildisle.ca
Fees
Parks Canada charges each person $248.50 in Total Fees to hike the entire West Coast Trail end-to-end. This cost includes the WCT Reservation Fee ($25.75 per person), WCT Overnight User Fee ($166.75 per person), Gordon River Ferry Fee ($28.00 per person), and the Nitinat Narrows Ferry Fee ($28.00 per person). There are three different fee structures:
- Pachena Bay – Gordon River, or vice versa: $248.50 per person plus National Park Entry Fees ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group)
- Pachena Bay – Nitinaht Village, or vice versa: $194.75 per person, plus Nitinaht Lake Water Taxi fees ($70.00 per person), plus National Park Entry Fees ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group)
- Gordon River – Nitinaht Village, or vice versa: $222.75 per person, plus Nitinaht Lake Water Taxi fees ($70.00 per person), plus National Park Entry Fees ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group)
All WCT users must have a valid National Park Entry Pass ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group) in addition to their WCT Overnight User Fee (Youth 17 and under are free). Hikers will need to check in to the WCT trailhead offices and show their valid National Park Entry passes and keep these passes on them during their hike.
Fees include all taxes, and are listed in Canadian funds.
From the Parks Canada website:
- Reservations are mandatory
- Campers can book their adventure by visiting reservation.pc.gc.ca or by calling 1-877-RESERVE (1-877-737-3783).
- When making a reservation, have the following ready:
- preferred start dates – first choice and alternate dates;
- the number of hikers in your group;
- the names and emergency contacts for hikers;
- means of payment: Visa, MasterCard or American Express (see our Fees for information on West Coast Trail fees);
- the access point you plan to start from – Pachena Bay, Gordon River or Nitinaht Village; and
- an email address to send confirmation and orientation information.
- Standby list
- Standby spaces are no longer available, all spaces are reservable.
Access
The West Coast Trail has three official entrance or exit points (trailheads): Pachena Bay (Bamfield), Gordon River (Port Renfrew) and Nitinat Village. The Nitinat entrance is a new addition and allows people to hike only half the trail if they desire.
Since the West Coast Trail is a thru-hike, trailhead transportation must be arranged in advance. Access to all trailheads is by vehicle (Pachena Bay and Gordon River) or vehicle plus ferry (Nitinat Lake). The roads near Pachena Bay and Nitinat Lake are rough and have logging traffic. We recommend paying for shuttle service.
West Coast Trail Express
Base: Victoria, BC
Website: trailbus.com
Phone: 1-250-477-8700 (Toll free: 1-888-999-2288)
Email: bus@trailbus.com
Schedule
Fares
West Coast Trail Express provides shuttle bus service (May 1 to September 30) from Victoria and Nanaimo to the trail heads and between the trail heads of the West Coast Trail. The West Coast Trail Bus picks up and drops off passengers at Victoria, Sooke, Port Renfrew, Gordon River, Mesachie Lake, Honeymoon Bay, Nanaimo, Nitinat Junction, Pachena Bay, and Bamfield. The West Coast Trail Express also services the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail.
- Victoria to Gordon River Trailhead: $80 one-way
- Victoria to Pachena Bay Trailhead: $120 one-way
Here are a few extra tips to make your shuttle journey flow well:
- Have your backpack packed and “hike-ready” before boarding the shuttle.
- Stow your trekking poles on or inside your pack.
- Fill your water bottles and bring snacks for the ride.
- Know where you want to be dropped off. Yes this sounds obvious, but there are many stops along the way and we observed lots of confused passengers. Luckily, the shuttle drivers are excellent, and make sure hikers get to their proper trailheads.
- Assisting the driver in identifying and unloading your pack helps the process flow more smoothly for everyone. There are no baggage claim tickets and it’s amazing how many people have the same backpacks!
Accommodations
Port Renfrew is close to the Gordon River Trailhead and Bamfield is close to the Pachena Bay Trailhead. Both towns have options for hotels and camping before and after your trip.
Port Renfrew Accommodations
Website: wildrenfrew.com
Bamfield Accommodations
Website: visitbamfield.ca
Pachena Bay Campground
Website: pachenabaycampground.ca
Weather
We study the weather before our trip using a few different resources. On trip we check weather daily with a satellite messenger. You will be hiking in a temperature marine climate. Be prepared for all kinds of weather!
Tides
Tide problems along the West Coast Trail involve headland cut-offs, surge channels, tidal creeks, and sandstone shelves under vertical cliffs. Beach terrain is rearranged every year from storm action. Plan accordingly by carrying tide tables and know how to use them. Parks Canada recommends Tofino (08615) tide tables.
North to South
- Pachena Beach (0 km) to south (0.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Forest bypass option available.
- Darling River (13.5 km) to Tsocowis Creek (17 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
- Trestle Creek (20 km) to Klanawa River (23 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
- Tsusiat Point (27 km). Hole-in-the-wall. Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
- Dare Point (39 km) to Cribs Creek (41.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
- West (43.5 km) to Carmanah Lighthouse (44 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
- Bonilla Point (48 km) to Vancouver Point (51.5 km). Passable at tides below 3.0 m.
- Vancouver Point (51.5 km) to Walbran Creek (53 km). Must be able to ford Walbran Creek. Passable at tides below 2.7 m. Taking the cable car over Walbran Creek commits you to the forest bypass option.
- Beach Access A (65 km) to Thrasher Cove (69.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Except Owen Point (67 km). Passable at tides below 1.8 m. This is a difficult route with surge channels and many boulders.
South to North
- Thrasher Cove (69.5 km) to Beach Access A (65 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Except Owen Point (67 km). Passable at tides below 1.8 m. This is a difficult route with surge channels and many boulders.
- Walbran Creek (53 km) to Vancouver Point (51.5 km). Must be able to ford Walbran Creek. Passable at tides below 2.7 m. Taking the cable car over Walbran Creek commits you to the forest bypass option.
- Vancouver Point (51.5 km) to Bonilla Point (48 km). Passable at tides below 3.0 m.
- Carmanah Lighthouse (44 km) to west (43.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
- Cribs Creek (41.5 km) to Dare Point (39 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
- Tsusiat Point (27 km). Hole-in-the-wall. Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
- Klanawa River (23 km) to Trestle Creek (20 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
- Tsocowis Creek (17 km) to Darling River (13.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
- South (0.5 km) to Pachena Beach (0 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Forest bypass option available.
Reference: Parks Canada West Coast Trail Map 2019
View updated tide tables for your trip dates:
- Tofino (08615) – 7 day and hourly prediction tide tables provide predicted times and heights of the high and low waters.
Route
The West Coast Trail is a challenging and strenuous coastal experience. The beach sections contain: logs, deep sand, wet sand, pea gravel, pebbles, tidal shelves, sloped surfaces, seaweed, algae, boulders, creeks, rocky headlands, sandstone, tide problems, and tidal creeks. All surfaces are potentially mobile and slippery like ice.
The rainforest sections have their own challenges: steep overland sections, blowdowns to crawl over or under, knee-deep mud, and slippery roots. There are also man-made wooden structures such as bridges, boardwalks, and ladder-systems in various states of decay. Forest entrances and campsites are marked with hanging floats.
Regardless of direction, 75 km over complex coastal and rainforest terrain is a physical and mental challenge for most hikers.
Here are some tips to help you move more efficiently through the terrain:
- We find it safer to stow hiking poles on our backpacks when climbing up and down ladder systems. That means we have to collapse them first. This exercise can take a lot of time as it is repeated many times a day.
- For better efficiency, practice collapsing and extending your poles. Also, practice attaching poles to the backpack with help from a hiking partner so you don’t have to remove your pack. Find out the best place on your backpack to stow them, utilizing either side pockets or straps, or both. Become familiar with your gear.
- We use Black Diamond Distance Carbon FLZ Poles because they are adjustable, fairly lightweight, collapse quickly using a Z-fold, and re-extend in seconds. Telescoping poles, the kind you twist to loosen and telescope to collapse, seem to take longer to deal with.
- The West Coast Trail is hard on trekking poles, no matter which brand you select. We have had pole breakage on every trip thus far! It usually happens when a pole gets stuck in the mud or between rocks and the hiker falls onto it. We always use two poles because if one breaks, we have a spare.
South to North vs North to South
We have hiked the West Coast Trail south to north and north to south. The advantage of hiking south to north or northbound (NOBO) is that more difficult terrain is completed in the first few days. The boulder field from Thrasher Cove to Owen Point and the ladder systems from Camper Creek to Walbran Creek are among the most challenging obstacles. The advantage of hiking north to south or southbound (SOBO) is the ability to condition your body on easier sections before the most challenging sections.
Campsites
There are 12 designated campsites along the West Coast Trail. All sites are located on beaches, and some are nicer than others. All campsites have outhouses, food lockers, and access to fresh water.
Thrasher Cove (70 km)
Thrasher Cove Camp is usually the first stop for northbound hikers starting from Gordon River. The site is small and crowded, but does the job. The wilderness feeling is a little lost here due to close proximity to Port Renfrew and boat traffic. If you are hiking north, the descent to Thrasher Cove will be your first multiple ladder system experience.
Camper Creek (62 km)
Camper Creek Camp is a large campsite situated by small Camper Bay. We’ve stopped for lunch twice on the expansive pebble beach. If Camper Creek is low, you don’t need the cable car. It looks like a great spot that can accommodate lots of hikers. There is a Trail Guardian Cabin at this site so if you need help, this is a good spot to get some. Many northbound hikers seem to stay here for their second night.
Cullite Creek (58 km)
We’ve stayed at Cullite Creek once. The site is a few hundred metres off the main trail on Cullite Cove. Because of geography, the beach nestled between sandstone cliffs can get crowded fast. Once the beach is full, there are sites across the gravel bar between the cable car and beach. If Cullite Creek is low, you don’t need the cable car.
Walbran Creek (53 km)
Walbran Creek Camp is a welcome place after a long day on the ladders. There is lots of room to spread out along the edge of the forest or the shore of the Walbran Creek lagoon. Camp further south on the pebbles for more privacy. You will be further from the water and amenities, but the extra walk is worth it. If Walbran Creek is low, you don’t need the cable car. If Walbran is unfordable, you must use the cable car and commit to a forest bypass route for a few kilometres. This spot is excellent for a mid-day break as you can take advantage of the pond for a swim.
Bonilla Creek (48 km)
We’ve often stopped at gorgeous Bonilla Creek Camp for snack breaks and stayed the night here for the first time in May, 2023. Some of the sites are situated in the cool forest just off the beach. This place has an excellent wilderness feel and views of sea stacks. A bonus feature is pretty Bonilla Falls. Highly recommended and less busy than other sites.
Carmanah Creek (46 km)
Carmanah Creek Camp is situated on a massive, open, sandy beach. This is Pacific Rim National Park at it’s finest. We’ve been fortunate to spend a night here and it’s one of our favourites. Even if you don’t camp, this beach is worth stopping at for a nice break. If Carmanah Creek is fordable, you can skip the cable car.
Cribs Creek (42 km)
Cribs Creek Camp has a huge, green creek running through it for excellent water. This can be a crowded site, so setting up camp further north will guarantee a bit more solitude. The beach has a fascinating natural breakwater feature that the river otters love. Sea lions like to congregate on a large offshore rock at Cribs…sometimes there is a fishy smell that blows into camp!
Tsusiat Falls (25 km)
Tsusiat Falls Camp is one of the most popular campsites on the trail. The camp is on a large, beautiful, sandy beach. The Tsusiat Falls is the defining feature of this campsite, with water levels changing over the season. It’s a popular place to wash off the hiking dirt with the rest of the hikers and the seagulls. Sunsets here are spectacular. We’ve stayed at the less crowded north and south ends of the beach. Most people crowd in the middle near the falls and food locker zones.
Klanawa River (23 km)
Klanawa is gorgeous site that would definitely be worth staying at. We stayed here overnight for the first time in May, 2023. It has a very wild feel with no other campers around. Most itineraries include a night at Tsusiat Falls. However, if you have an extra day to play with, and want to build in some rest time, this site is less populated and situated near the huge Klanawa River. If you have come from Tsusiat Falls and your gear is wet, this is a great spot to stop for a while and dry it in the sun.
Tsocowis Creek (16.5 km)
Another beautiful site, Tsocowis Creek has nice water and more solitude. There is also a Trail Guardian Cabin at this location. We’ve stopped at Tsocowis for breaks before the hiking the beach to Michigan Creek. If the sun is out, the northbound section can be a hot slog on sand, pea gravel and shelves. Tsocowis is great place to rest, snack, drink water, fill bottles, apply sunscreen, and fish out your sun hats.
Darling River (14 km)
We stop at Darling River Camp for breaks once and have considered staying because of the beautiful riverside location and cascading Darling Falls above a lovely green pool. Darling River floods quickly with rain and there is no cable car option. If you arrive here and can ford the river safely, it is advisable to do so rather than wait.
Michigan Creek (12 km)
Michigan Creek is similar to Thrasher Cove in that it is close to a trailhead and can therefore be crowded. Yet, there is a fair amount of space at the north end of the beach. Sunsets are spectacular here, with the dark silhouette of Pachena Point against a purple and orange sky. There is no cable car option across Michigan Creek; the crossing could be difficult or impossible with heavy rain. It’s a great spot to view the coast southeast all the way to Carmanah Point.
Here are some tips to enhance your camping experience:
- We’ve observed that people tend to set up camp on top of each other. At most sites, solitude and privacy can be created. You may have to walk further to the outhouse or food locker but the small effort is worth it if you have the energy.
- Food lockers can get crowded at the popular sites. We recommend eating early and stowing food bags before the late-comers arrive.
- All fresh water should be properly treated before consumption. We collect as far upstream as possible. At Tsusiat Falls, we collect water from the falls itself, not the pool or the creek that flows from it! Too many people and seagulls take a bath there. Carmanah Creek also seems to have a large seagull population. Collecting water father upstream also avoids consuming brackish water (slightly salty water due to the mixing of seawater and creek water).
Trip Reports
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – May 1-4, 2023
- Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 14-20, 2022
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 31-August 6, 2022
- Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 24-30, 2019
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – June 23-29, 2019
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 11-17, 2018
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 7-13, 2017
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 23-29, 2017
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 5-12, 2016
- Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 17-22, 2015
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – May 1-4, 2023
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 4 days
- Peak: 245 m
- Gain: 1455 m
- Route: CalTopo
I was delighted to hike the West Coast Trail during opening week. My tentative plan was to complete the trip solo in six days, visiting campsites outside my usual itinerary. In the end, I completed the trail in just four days, inspired by two lightweight backpackers, my new hiking buddies Anne and James, and very favourable trail conditions. I plan to make this May trip a yearly event, hopefully joined by similar enthusiasts. It was the perfect follow-up coastal expedition after a couple of training missions on the Juan de Fuca Trail!
Day 1: Gordon River to Camper Bay
- Distance: 14.9 km
- Duration: 5 h 49 min
- Peak: 229 m
- Gain: 636 m
- Track: Suunto
My plan for Day 1 was to hike from Gordon River to Camper Bay. The first West Coast Trail northbound backpackers marvelled at midsummer-like weather conditions: temperature 14.1ºC, humidity 53.4%, and calm winds. Twelve of us attended the 1000 h Parks Canada orientation session and learned about current hazards: slick surfaces, a small blowdown alder at 72 km, destroyed Thrasher Cove outhouse (leave no trace until next week), poles and fencing to protect falls down the “otter slide” near Beach Access B (avoid). The Gordon River ferry trip was energetic as always. The first ladder, tall and vertical, brought us off the beach and right into the fray. To my surprise, the trail was mostly dry from Gordon River to Beach Access B. I bypassed Thrasher Cove and the boulder field as my goal was speed and distance. There were of course a few puddles and moist log walks, punctuated with dilapidated boardwalk and mini mud bogs where drainage was poor. I enjoyed the beach section between Beach Access B (some missing rungs on the ladder) and Beach Access A. Sand stone architecture, receding tide, ocean breeze, and big breakers provided refreshing energy to power me over the last kilometres of the day. Birds dominated the wildlife observations: Pacific wrens, Steller’s jay, hummingbirds. I heard a rustling in the bushes east of Tristle Creek. Hollering out, the rustling evolved into crashing through woods. After descending the ladders down to Camper Creek, I took the cable car across for the first time. I was triumphant to be the first backpacker to Camper at 1630 h and had the pick of best campsites. The next Camper group arrived at 1830 h.
Day 2: Camper Bay to Bonilla Creek
- Distance: 18.8 km
- Duration: 7 h 34 min
- Peak: 121 m
- Gain: 382 m
- Track: Suunto
My goal for Day 2 was to hike from Camper Creek to Bonilla Point. I woke to clear skies, no precipitation, and a dry tent! The overnight low temperature was 8.4ºC with a humidity of 73.2% and no wind. I left camp a little later than usual and climbed the Camper Creek ladders at 0925 h. My boots hit dry rainforest trail again, as new spring growth coloured the landscape in a vibrant green. Mammal signs included bear and wolf tracks, as well as several large piles of furry wolf scat on boardwalks. Our bird friends were back, with eagles soaring overhead. I even caught view of a tiny elusive Pacific wren bouncing in the forest undergrowth and singing his typewriter song. Sandstone Creek, a regular break spot, refreshed with cool air and pretty little waterfalls. Temperatures climbed into the mid-teens on the boardwalk through upland bogs. The famous mud “swimming pool” was dry and easily navigated. The Cullite Creek ladder system, one of the biggest on the West Coast Trail, had some weak rungs on descent. Again, a crossing of the creek by cable car was required for the first time. The new Logan Creek Suspension Bridge enables a faster crossing compared to the previous tilting-ladder roller coaster. Walbran Creek was the perfect spot for a break and to assess the water levels. Normally, a gravel bar forms a bridge for easy crossing. However, the spring creek was too high and I opted to take the stiff and slow cable car. An easy reroute around sea caves brought me back to the coast. I hiked the beach around Vancouver Point, looking for shipwreck debris, then made the final journey to Bonilla Creek Camp. I met up with Jesse from Geartrade.ca for the first time in person. He was travelling southbound on the opposite itinerary. We couldn’t have picked a better place to share trail stories, talk gear, and test out a new livestream collaboration in the field. The beautiful waterfall, amazing sunset, campfire, stars, and planet viewing made for a lovely spring evening with new friends.
Day 3: Bonilla Creek to Klanawa River
- Distance: 29.7 km
- Duration: 10 h 49 min
- Peak: 63 m
- Gain: 505 m
- Track: Suunto
I had originally planned to hike from Bonilla Creek to Dare Beach today and have a rest, but conditions were excellent so I pushed on to Klanawa River. The night was warmer, with a low of 11.3ºC, 72.8% humidity, and another dry fly. I had a massive day ahead, so hiked out of Bonilla just before 0700 h with cool, overcast conditions. Carmanah Creek could have been forded with boots off, but I was determined to use every cable car on the West Coast Trail. The baleen whales joined me off Carmanah Point. After a quick visit to the Carmanah Light Station, I descending back to the beach. Wildlife rewards included green sea anemones ensconced in the sandstone tidal pools. I arrived at Cribs Creek Camp after a couple of hours and opted for the inland route. This decision was regrettable due to thick bushes. I had to crouch down and almost crawl along the high trail, ripping my shirt and scratching my arms. I recommend this segment be scheduled for pruning ASAP because the trail follows the cliff edge with limited visibility. The Dare Point area is worth exploration, seeking out shipwreck artifacts hidden throughout the sandstone landscape. With limited time to spare, I motored through the beautiful Cheewhat zone and onto smoother paths. Boardwalk highways transported me to Nitinaht Narrows. I had the honour of being the first NOBO hiker to visit the Crab Shack and celebrated with a feed of potatoes and cold bubbly drinks. While enjoying a chat with Shelly and Carl about all the work involved in setting up their operations for the summer. Time ticked on, and I hiked towards Hole-in-the-Wall and Tsusiat Falls for 1600 h. There were no other campers here…an incredible sight since Tsusiat is easily the busiest summer campsite on the West Coast Trail. Seeing whales off Tsusiat Point gave me the energy to press on to Kalanwa River. The big ladder south of the river had a missing rung about halfway down. I gathered fresh water from the south side because I wasn’t sure about fresh water availability at camp on the north side. The Klanawa River is wide and tidal, mixing with ocean water near the mouth. Finally, after yet another long, stiff, solo slow cable car effort, I arrived at camp exhausted after almost 11 hours of hiking. My new hiking buddies arrived shortly afterwards and we enjoyed more whale viewing during camp setup and dinner time.
Day 4: Klanawa River to Pachena Bay
- Distance: 23.5 km
- Duration: 5 h 58 min
- Peak: 130 m
- Gain: 525 m
- Track: Suunto
I could potentially finish this trip on Day 4 if I got moving early enough. My new lightweight fast packer friends would finish today, which motivated me to get off the trail sooner too. I experienced overcast skies at breakfast and no precipitation with an overnight low of 10.1ºC, humidity 79.8%, and calm wind. Unfortunately, the bugs found us at Klanawa. There must have been a hatching of little black flies on the river. I hustled along the coastal route towards Trestle Creek and into the forest above Valencia Bluffs. The famous red chairs beckoned for a quick rest as usual. I enjoyed the straight highway trail after the bluffs, making excellent time. The birds kept me company once again, most vocalizing their spring activities. I passed Tsocowis Creek at 0930 h, then Darling Creek at 1030 h. I sent a text to Michael at the West Coast Trail Express, inquiring about a Pachena Bay pickup. He held the last spot for me on the 1345 h shuttle. I hoofed it all the way out at 5.2 kph past the barking sea lions on the rocks. The tide was high at Pachena, so in a final effort, I navigated the last ladders on this trip very carefully. I made it to the Pachena Bay trailhead at 1320 h. There was just enough time for a quick change into a fresh t-shirt and socks. The shuttle transported me back to my waiting car in Gordon River by 1700 h. Not too bad for an early season trip: 75 km in 4 days and 3 nights!
Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 14-20, 2022
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 245 m
- Gain: 1455 m
- Route: CalTopo
Our second and final West Coast Trail trip of the season occurred August 14 to August 20. This adventure travelled the North to South direction. Our group of three enjoyed an incredible experience, finishing the trail in six of a planned seven days. We lost half our original team in the weeks leading up to departure due to injuries and other unforeseen circumstances. Highlights of the beautiful week included epic August weather, almost totally dry route conditions, lots of wildlife viewing, awe-inspiring scenery, and a ton of experiential learning.
Day 1: Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek
- Distance: 13.7 km
- Duration: 5 h 3 min
- Peak: 132 m
- Gain: 343 m
- Track: Suunto
After only a week since returning from our northbound trip, we hit the highway to Pachena Bay. Our small group arrived at the trailhead office just in time for the 1000 h orientation. After receiving permits and maps, we completed a pack-fitting session and headed onto the beach. The weather was lovely, with partly cloudy skies, temperatures in the teens, light NW winds, and no precipitation. The first few kilometres were dry and freshly pruned. Meandering through rainforest on old skid roads was a pleasant way to start with heavy packs. The trail near the Pachena Light Station and over Pachena Point was muddy and slick. We arrived at Michigan Creek in just over 5 hours, happy to setup in a favourite campsite with sunny skies for an afternoon swim.
Weather observations. Sky: few-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 12.7-19.8ºC, Humidity: 53.0-78.1%, Wind: calm-light NW, Pressure: 1020.0-1022.3 mb.
Day 2: Michigan Creek to Tsusiat Falls
- Distance: 15.6 km
- Duration: 7 h 33 min
- Peak: 64 m
- Gain: 199 m
- Track: Suunto
After a moonlit night at Michigan Creek, we woke to fog and wildlife. A black bear foraged in the intertidal zone and posed for everyone’s camera. Our team broke camp and departed just after 0800 h into the fog, hiking on a lowering morning tide. We enjoyed hard sand and dry flat rocks along the scenic coastal route. We passed the little rustic camp called Orange Juice Creek, then stopped at Tsocowis for a proper break and cold water fill. Energy restored, we climbed our first big ladders of trip. The inland route continued on graded paths, passing the famous Valencia outlook and old logging artifacts. After another break and water stop at Trestle Creek, we transitioned back to coastal terrain. We continued through patches of fog, hoping for a gravel bar or log crossing over Klanawa River. Unfortunately, the river course changed since our last trip and we ended up on the cable car. More ladders, boardwalks, and mud brought us to the busy camp at Tsusiat Falls.
Weather observations. Sky: obscured-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 10.9-18.1ºC, Humidity: 63.9-84.5%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1018.2-1022.0 mb.
Day 3: Tsusiat Falls to Cribs Creek
- Distance: 20.0 km
- Duration: 8 h 29 min
- Peak: 61 m
- Gain: 334 m
- Track: Suunto
Our group woke to another gorgeous day on the beach. After a breakfast meeting, we hiked the coastal route towards Tsusiat Point and through Hole-in-the-Wall. The sun rose against light fog and illuminated perfect tides. Our beach hiking continued to Tsuquadra Point, then inland to Nitinat Narrows for a ferry ride and the Crab Shack. We opted for a quick pop and chips instead of a heavy feast. After a short rest, we hit the boardwalks to Clo-oose and the Cheewhat Bridge. An inland path through cool rainforest was our preferred route in the heat. We dropped onto a short beach section and made it around the boulders just as the tide was coming in. A ladder took us up and above Dare Point and we enjoyed freshly pruned sections. The forest shaded our final walk to Cribs Creek Camp as we navigated a short stretch of bushy trail. Our longest distance of 17 km was rewarded with a refreshing swim.
Weather observations. Sky: obscured-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.8-22.5ºC, Humidity: 82.8-87.8%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1018.3-1019.8 mb.
Day 4: Cribs Creek to Walbran Creek
- Distance: 13.5 km
- Duration: 5 h 38 min
- Peak: 54 m
- Gain: 68 m
- Track: Suunto
We woke up early to more epic summer weather. Crystal clear skies, perfect temperatures, and no precipitation. Seeing the famous Cribs sea lion colony on the haul-out rocks was an excellent start to a day of wildlife viewing. We checked out the rich intertidal life on sandstone shelves west of Carmanah Light Station. These tide pools are usually full of giant green anemones and purple urchins. A coast guard helicopter landing at the lighthouse buzzed overhead as we passed. The keeper told us that whales were spotted recently and instructed us to keep our eyes open. We dropped back down to Carmanah Beach and saw a little black bear foraging in the salal bushes around camp. The massive seagull colony enjoyed their spa time in the creek. The day continued to grow hotter as we hiked past lovely Bonilla Point and onto Vancouver Point. We leap-frogged from one shady rest spot to the next, arriving at Walbran Creek for freshwater swims and more whale spotting news.
Weather observations. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 11.5-27.8ºC, Humidity: 71.0-91.8%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1014.1-1019.8 mb.
Day 5: Walbran Creek to Camper Bay
- Distance: 12.8 km
- Duration: 7 h 43 min
- Peak: 119 m
- Gain: 313 m
- Track: Suunto
The theme of sunny skies, warm air, and no precipitation continued. Departing Walbran Creek at 0740 h, we headed south towards Camper Bay, experiencing a transition from coastal beaches to rainforest hiking. The group was now conditioned for the bigger ladder systems and deep drainages. We worked our way through roots and broken boardwalks up into the upland bogs. The big new Logan Creek suspension bridge was a treat before more ups and downs across Cullite Creek and Sandstone Creek. We paused for breaks and water refills at all the creeks and enjoyed fresh sea breezes in the canyons. The team moved across dry roots and rocks at an efficient pace, slowing for the tedious muddy sections, some of which never dry out. Our final decent down to Camper Bay was rewarded with fresh water swimming after almost 8 hours of rainforest obstacles.
Weather observations. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.9-27.9ºC, Humidity: 57.1-90.1%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1012.4-1013.7 mb.
Day 6-7: Camper Bay to Gordon River
- Distance: 16.1 km
- Duration: 11 h 22 min
- Peak: 236 m
- Gain: 635 m
- Track: Suunto
After a lightning show and distant rumbles overnight, we were happy to depart early at 0730 h. We moved up and down ladders in the dark forested hillside, enjoying tree cover while a stiff wind and light showers passed overhead. Later in the morning, our team enjoyed gentler paths to Beach Access A. We dropped onto the sandstone shelves for a final coastal hike over eroded sedimentary features with beautiful ocean views. The skies parted, revealing better weather as we hiked back up Beach Access B and inland to Thrasher junction. This classic West Coast Trail section is comprised of mangled roots, rotten bridges, and precarious log walks. We decided to hike straight on through to Gordon River. After 11.5 hours, we arrived at the final vertical ladder and finished the trail in 6 days. We caught the first ferry the next morning, after spending a night at the Gordon River Trailhead.
Weather observations. Sky: broken clouds-overcast, Precipitation: nil-light rain, Temperature: 15.6-20.9ºC, Humidity: 82.1-97.1%, Wind: moderate SW-calm, Pressure: 1012.0-1016.7 mb.
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 31-August 6, 2022
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 245 m
- Gain: 1455 m
- Route: CalTopo
I guided a wonderful group of five hikers on the West Coast Trail from July 31 to August 6. We were delighted for the dry paths and minimal mud puddles after a wet start to the season. We basked in sunshine for five of seven days with one rainy day and some marine fog to keep our tent flies damp. All our guided trips are rich in experiential learning, and this week provided many opportunities.
Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove
- Distance: 7.4 km
- Duration: 4 h 54 min
- Peak: 230 m
- Gain: 439 m
- Track: Suunto
Our team had an excellent start to our week-long backpacking trip. We arrived at the West Coast Trail Information Centre in Gordon River, checked in, attended the Parks Canada orientation session, and received our overnight use permits. The ferry transported us to our first obstacle: a giant vertical ladder. Weather and route conditions were excellent with warm air and dry mud. We made it to Thrasher Cove in just under 5 hours at a relaxed pace, enjoying shady forest bumps. After the final big ladders, we arrived at the beach. We were delighted to find the secluded east camp zone empty of people. Our team grabbed 5-star accommodations and enjoyed a sunny ocean swim.
Weather observations. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 12.7-23.1ºC.
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay
- Distance: 10.0 km
- Duration: 6 h 29 min
- Peak: 88 m
- Gain: 144 m
- Track: Suunto
The Thrasher Boulders lived up to their reputation. Our first wake-up and camp break-down was smooth. We aimed for an 0800 h departure, taking advantage of the low tide around Owen Point. Thick marine fog and constant mist made for slick surfaces and slower steps. We managed the boulder problems with only a couple of scratches and one broken trekking pole. Seeing the emerald Owen Point sea caves was worth the effort. After a photo break, we continued along the sandstone shelves, avoiding surge channels and the infamous otter slide. With tides in our favour, we opted to take Beach Access A back into the forest. The route offered us boardwalks and the first real mud of the trip. After a few more kilometres, we arrived at Camper Bay in just under 6.5 hours. We appreciated arriving at camp in the early afternoon, with plenty of time to setup gear and practice fire building.
Weather observations. Sky: obscured-overcast, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.0-18.4ºC.
Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek
- Distance: 13.3 km
- Duration: 7 h 27 min
- Peak: 126 m
- Gain: 342 m
- Track: Suunto
After an 0800 h departure from Camper Bay, we started our most strenuous day. The section between Camper Bay and Cullite Creek offers some of the biggest ladder systems on the trail. We enjoyed the new Logan Creek suspension bridge span. The trail was muddy, and we encountered rotted and deteriorating boardwalks. The tough sections were broken up with nicer route conditions across open and breezy upland bogs. This unique ecosystem presented opportunities to identify plants and interpret ecology. We were excited to find carnivorous sundews glistening in the sunshine, waiting for unsuspecting insects. We arrived at Walbran Creek Camp after 7.5 hours of effort. Once again, we obtained the best campsite. The guys were “three for three” on five-star camping and “two for two” on swimming pools right off the front porch. Our team celebrated Walbran Creek, a milestone marking the end of the more difficult forest sections.
Weather observations. Sky: overcast-broken clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.2-19.5ºC.
Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
- Distance: 12.4 km
- Duration: 4 h 27 min
- Peak: 56 m
- Gain: 53 m
- Track: Suunto
We experienced real West Coast Trail rain today. Departing Walbran Creek just before 0800 h, we were first out of camp in the northbound group. Skies were overcast with light showers and a southerly breeze. We easily forded Walbran Creek and continued along the coastline. Conditions became soggier, so we increased our pace. After another easy ford of Carmanah Creek, we passed the usual massive flock of seagulls. This beach is always a favourite, with hard-packed sand and gorgeous views. Our hopes of nibbles at Nytom’s (previously Chez Monique’s) were dashed when we came upon a dilapidated driftwood structure where the restaurant used to be. We continued up to the Carmanah Light Station and passed through the yard, taking the low tide route down onto the shelves. The team was treated to amazing tide pools full of purple urchins and green sea anemones. The last couple of kilometres flew by. We arrived at Cribs Creek Camp after only 4.5 hours of hiking. The forecasted light precipitation turned into moderate rain. Tarps were rigged just in time to create a dry sheltered area for the group.
Weather observations. Sky: overcast-obscured, Precipitation: light-heavy rain, Temperature: 11.9-15.1ºC.
Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
- Distance: 18.3 km
- Duration: 9 h 6 min
- Peak: 59 m
- Gain: 377 m
- Track: Suunto
The rains eased overnight and we broke camp under clearing skies. Our longest day started with hiking the Cribs breakwater and taking the low tide route around Dare Beach. We discovered shipwreck artifacts and amazing intertidal wildlife. Eventually we were forced off the sandstone shelves, up the ladders, and onto the trail towards Cheewhat River. Lots of fresh brushing made for an enjoyable hike, even with the occasional splash of mud. Although the day’s terrain was easier, there were still slippery sections to navigate. The Cheewhat River suspension bridge offered the perfect picture opportunity before we quickly hiked the next few kilometres. We arrived at Nitinat Narrows and the Crab Shack before noon. The guys enjoyed the first reward of the day…a lazy two hour lunch stop. After the ferry crossing, we continued (slower with full bellies) to Tsusiat Falls. Our second reward was a fresh shower in the falls.
Weather observations. Sky: overcast-few clouds, Precipitation: light rain-nil, Temperature: 11.9-18.3ºC.
Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek
- Distance: 13.5 km
- Duration: 6 h 4 min
- Peak: 66 m
- Gain: 193 m
- Track: Suunto
We departed our secluded camp on the west side of Tsusiat Falls just before 0800 h. Not many hikers know about a secret outhouse and food locker tucked into bushes nearby. After a few warm-up ladders, we filled our water bottles above the falls. The guys were in high gear for a day of rainforest paths, messy mud holes, spectacular coastal stretches, and several graded trail sections on the way to Michigan Creek. The sunny morning was broken by a few fog banks, keeping us cool for long slogs over soft surfaces. We constantly explored the most efficient walking lines. The receding tide exposed hard sandstone shelves that were a welcome change from coarse sand and gravel. The final few kilometres between Tsocowis Creek and Michigan Creek were tough in the hot midday sun. We arrived at camp in 6 hours, and were happy to setup in a final five-star spot near shady trees.
Weather observations. Sky: clear-obscured, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 9.5-20.5ºC.
Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
- Distance: 12.0 km
- Duration: 3 h 45 min
- Peak: 119 m
- Gain: 329 m
- Track: Suunto
Our team enjoyed a beautiful last evening on the beach, with clear weather and camping under the stars. We also saw our first two black bears of the trip. One bear ambled around the driftwood at the west end of beach, and another at the Michigan Creek mouth. We broke camp and started hiking one hour earlier at 0700 h. The guys were on fire and shattered the MB Guiding record from Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay, finishing the last 12 km of trail in 3 hours and 45 minutes! Perhaps the speed was due to all the Parks Canada “cougar and bear in the area” warning signs posted along the way. We arrived in Pachena Bay at 1045 h for our finish line photos. There was plenty of time before our 1300 h West Coast Trail Express private shuttle for a visit to the Pachena Campground store and a final ocean swim. Mission accomplished!
Weather observations. Sky: clear-few clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 10.8-25.7ºC.
Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 24-30, 2019
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 235 m
- Gain: 1534 m
- Route: CalTopo
Our second West Coast Trail adventure of season was our first trip in the southbound direction! A full team of seven participants showed up to challenge themselves in our coastal rainforest. Super dry conditions, a rare wildlife viewing opportunity, and new trail sections for us made this trip memorable.
Route
- Day 1: Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek. Distance: 13.13 km, Duration: 5:02’10, Peak: 129 m. Ascent: 253 m, Ascent time: 1:04’05, Descent: 241 m, Descent time: 1:09’38. Suunto
- Day 2: Michigan Creek to Tsusiat Falls. Distance: 14.69 km, Duration: 8:04’09, Peak: 64 m. Ascent: 135 m, Ascent time: 0:33’04, Descent: 125 m, Descent time: 0:38’26. Suunto
- Day 3: Tsusiat Falls to Cribs Creek. Distance: 19.27 km, Duration: 9:26’49, Peak: 63 m. Ascent: 232 m, Ascent time: 1:19’37, Descent: 232 m, Descent time: 1:20’57. Suunto
- Day 4: Cribs Creek to Walbran Creek. Distance: 13.50 km, Duration: 6:47’12, Peak: 52 m. Ascent: 46 m, Ascent time: 0:11’24, Descent: 52 m, Descent time: 0:06’18. Suunto
- Day 5: Walbran Creek to Camper Bay. Distance: 12.17 km, Duration: 7:58’57, Peak: 129 m. Ascent: 276 m, Ascent time: 1:05’03, Descent: 249 m, Descent time: 0:43’52. Suunto
- Day 6: Camper Bay to Thasher Cove. Distance: 10.43 km, Duration: 5:53’27, Peak: 167 m. Ascent: 235 m, Ascent time: 1:20’01, Descent: 234 m, Descent time: 0:55’47. Suunto
- Day 7: Thasher Cove to Gordon River. Distance: 6.63 km, Duration: 4:10’32, Peak: 235 m. Ascent: 357 m, Ascent time: 1:19’57, Descent: 387 m, Descent time: 1:29’45. Suunto
Weather
- Day 1: Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek. Sky: scattered, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 16.2-27.0ºC, Humidity: 49.8-83.9%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1017.3 mb.
- Day 2: Michigan Creek to Tsusiat Falls. Sky: fog, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.7-20.8ºC, Humidity: 66.9-95.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1023.1 mb.
- Day 3: Tsusiat Falls to Cribs Creek. Sky: fog, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 10.8-19.2ºC, Humidity: 72.1-100.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1023.8 mb.
- Day 4: Cribs Creek to Walbran Creek. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 9.7-26.5ºC, Humidity: 40.7-100.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1019.7 mb.
- Day 5: Walbran Creek to Camper Bay. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.6-23.4ºC, Humidity: 57.6-98.2%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1011.6 mb.
- Day 6: Camper Bay to Thasher Cove. Sky: fog, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.6-24.0ºC, Humidity: 59.3-100.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1015.1 mb.
- Day 7: Thasher Cove to Gordon River. Sky: broken, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 16.2-20.0ºC, Humidity: 77.7-99.4%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1017.1 mb.
Wildlife
Wildlife sightings were abundant on our southbound trip. A few hours into our hike to Michigan Creek, a participant saw a black bear cub up in a tree. Soon the mother walked onto the trail. We watched and waited for several minutes until the pair safely reunited and bounded into the forest. The tide pools were packed with animals as always: sea anemones, crabs, snails, sculpins.
Seagulls were the dominant bird of the trip. Massive colonies gathered near the mouths of all the big creeks. The Walbran group was particularly huge. Hundreds of gulls squared and bathed well into the evening. At sunset, a few flew away to sea. Soon after, the entire flock followed. In the morning, the gulls returned to Walbran Creek to rest. The Carmanah Creek seagull colony was also massive, with white feathers carpeting the packed sand. Ravens croaked in the early mornings, acting as alarm clock. We observed a few bald eagles patrol the beaches. Being late summer as opposed to the spring breeding season, the forest was mostly quiet. A few Pacific wrens still sang their typewriter song, out from under decayed logs and mossy thickets. One or two Steller’s jays screeched at us as we hiking through their territories.
Large marine mammals were spotted with excitement. The established sea lion colony was visible from the beach near Cribs Creek. Our best marine mammal viewing occurred approximately 1 km northwest of Vancouver Point on route to Walbran Creek. We were hot and tired from hours of exposed beach slogging. One of our participants noticed a grey whale feeding about 50 m from shore. The best kind of whale viewing is when you can watch the animal from land. This special experience renewed our energy to push onward to Walban Creek Camp.
Hazards
Dehydration and heat exhaustion were the greatest hazards on beach hiking days. There was ample drinking water so we took every opportunity to rehydrate. The West Coast Trail ladders are a unique obstacle compared with other coastal trips. We encountered one ladder down to Cribs Creek from the Dare Beach cliffs that had a few missing rungs. The cliffs above Dare Beach also had big exposure for a decent stretch. Tripping is not an option in this section. Roots, rocks, boulders, and tidal shelves were slippery and tackled with care.
Notes
Completing our first southbound West Coast Trail trip was several years in the making. We have always hiked the trail northbound for the simple reason of wanting to finish the most technical sections at the beginning of the trip. Our pack weights were only 5-10 pounds lighter for these harder southern sections, but the extra mental and physical conditioning from the northern sections gave us strength and confidence.
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – June 23-29, 2019
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 230 m
- Gain: 1453 m
- Route: CalTopo
Our first group of the season hiked the West Coast Trail in the northbound direction. The team included four keen adventurers from near and far. With good luck we enjoyed more solitude, with half-full campgrounds (and food lockers) and a lower number of hikers on the trail. We also had all kinds of weather!
Route
- Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove. Distance: 7.38 km, Duration: 5:49’42, Peak: 230 m. Ascent: 334 m, Ascent time: 1:36’20, Descent: 320 m, Descent time: 1:28’51. Suunto
- Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay. Distance: 9.96 km, Duration: 8:16’47, Peak: 81 m. Ascent: 123 m, Ascent time: 0:27’55, Descent: 74 m, Descent time: 0:21’05. Suunto
- Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek. Distance: 12.34 km, Duration: 8:24’19, Peak: 103 m. Ascent: 239 m, Ascent time: 1:05’24, Descent: 240 m, Descent time: 1:18’10. Suunto
- Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek. Distance: 13.59 km, Duration: 6:37’16, Peak: 50 m. Ascent: 47 m, Ascent time: 0:13’43, Descent: 53 m, Descent time: 0:08’43. Suunto
- Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls. Distance: 20.47 km, Duration: 10:27’43, Peak: 58 m. Ascent: 278 m, Ascent time: 1:16’21, Descent: 272 m, Descent time: 1:23’07. Suunto
- Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek. Distance: 15.59 km, Duration: 8:06’01, Peak: 65 m. Ascent: 176 m, Ascent time: 0:54’18, Descent: 175 m, Descent time: 0:56’40. Suunto
- Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay. Distance: 12.67 km, Duration: 4:12’55, Peak: 125 m. Ascent: 256 m, Ascent time: 1:14’05, Descent: 250 m, Descent time: 1:08’35. Suunto
Weather
We enjoyed perfect weather and dry route conditions on the first half of the trip. Dusty trails were normal and sticky surfaces made for easier movement over the rough sections. The upland bogs and rainforest ecosystems looked wilted and crisp. True to form, we got a real West Coast Trail hammering of heavy precipitation on day five. The water replenished the creeks and soaked the thirsty bogs…and us! By day six, the trail and our socks were drying out again.
Wildlife
For the first half of the trip, wildlife viewings were limited to small mammals, rainforest arthropods, and mollusks. We observed frequent birds between Gordon River and Walbran Creek. By day four, we were pleased to spot many sea lions and whales moving along the coastline. Whale sightings became routine at almost every viewpoint and campground from Nitinat Narrows to Michigan Creek! To top off these marine mega fauna sightings, we observed a black bear on our last night at Michigan Creek Camp.
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 11-17, 2018
- Distance: 74.8 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 205 m
- Gain: 1616 m
- Route: CalTopo
Our 2018 West Coast Trail trip was a great shared experience with an adventurous family group! Weather was perfect for hiking with cool mornings and warm afternoons almost every day. The high temperature was 28ºC and low temperature was 13ºC. There was no precipitation except for a bit of fog mist a few days and nights. Winds were generally calm to light northwest. Air pressure was between 1013 and 1021 hPa. We noticed some smoke from the BC wildfires for most of the trip. Route conditions were generally dry with minimal mud. Wildlife viewing included: seals, river otters, sea lions, black bears, eagles, ravens, crows, herons, thrushes, jays, and lots of marine life like sea anemones, starfish, and molluscs in the intertidal zones.
Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove
- Distance: 5.3 km
- Duration: 5 h 13 min
- Peak: 246 m
- Gain: 452 m
For 2018 we tried out the new West Coast Trail Express private chartered shuttle vans. Our driver Greg picked everybody up in front of our homes at 0700 h. We enjoyed having the shuttle all to ourselves and stopped at the coffee shop before hitting the highway. We attended the Parks Canada orientation session at the new Gordon River Trailhead office at 1000 h. The ranger presented information on safety procedures, recent wildlife sightings, route conditions, and the weather outlook for our week on the trail. We finished the meeting, hiked down to the dock, and loaded onto the the 1130 h ferry across Gordon River to the trailhead. Our first big obstacle on the northbound route started with a long vertical ladder right off the beach and into the rainforest! The first few hours of hiking from Gordon River to Thrasher Cove is always challenging, even in perfect conditions. There are many ups and downs, rough sections, and also the highest point on the entire trail. The final descent down to Thrasher Cove involves steep hiking and several ladder systems. Guests are happy to finally arrive at our first camp!
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay
- Distance: 7.5 km
- Duration: 6 h 1 min
- Peak: 62 m
- Gain: 102 m
The plan for Day 2 was to hike the shoreline route to Owen Point. The tides were the lowest of the year! We had a negative tide of -0.1 m at 0757 h and departed Thrasher Cove at 0813 h. Our strong team made it to Owen Point by 1030 h. Just over two hours is a good time through this section of jumbled boulders. We stuck to the shoreline route all the way to Beach Access A, arriving in perfect time for an extended mid-day rest on the rocks at 1200 h. After more rain forest hiking, we finished the day with a descent to the rocky beach at Camper Bay. Arriving at 1414 h gave us lots of time to explore around camp, swim in the creek and ocean, and dine with a waterfront view before an early bedtime.
Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek
- Distance: 9.5 km
- Duration: 6 h 44 min
- Peak: 101 m
- Gain: 277 m
Our team was really getting into the groove by Day 3! We woke to clear skies (although a bit orange from the lingering wildfire smoke), ate breakfast, packed up, and were out of camp by 0745 h. The day started with a climb up a ladder plus many more ups and downs throughout the day. The Logan Creek Suspension Bridge is always a highlight. We noticed a massive construction project while passing through. There was a new bridge being built that spans Logan Creek between the cliff tops. The new bridge anchors are a lot higher than the current ones. We continued on to Walbran Creek and enjoyed another early arrival to camp. We had plenty of time left in the day to lounge around and enjoy siestas on the beach!
Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
- Distance: 11.4 km
- Duration: 6 h 12 min
- Peak: 53 m
- Gain: 55 m
With the hardest sections of trail behind us, we had a relaxed departure from Walbran Creek. The shoreline section from Walbran to Cribs Creek is one of the most spectacular on the whole trail. The terrain includes lots of long sandy beach sections accentuated with sea stacks, waterfalls, Chez Monique’s, the Carmanah Lighthouse, and the infamous Cribs sea lion rocks! The low tides made for pleasant walking along the rocky tidal shelves, making sure not to step on any delicate organisms. We arrived at the restaurant at 1100 h with a group of salivating burger lovers! Our stop for a burger turned into long break with another siesta. The hike to Cribs Creek Camp was only a short 3 km on easy terrain. We viewed two huge colonies of Steller sea lions on the haul out rocks northwest of Carmanah Point. We arrived at camp by 1419 h. More naps on the sandy beach!
Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
- Distance: 16.7 km
- Duration: 8 h 43 min
- Peak: 60 m
- Gain: 269 m
We woke to a foggy morning, with the forecast for another clear and calm day. The hike started with a short scramble onto the sandstone formations at Cribs Creek. Hiking along the top of the natural breakwater offered an awesome view of the beaches and bays ahead. The early morning fog made for nice cool hiking along the coastline. We checked out the rusted remains of the Dare shipwreck. Afterwards we tackled a couple of ladders, then more easy hiking on the hard flat sand of Cheewhat and lengthy boardwalk sections to Nitinat Narrows. Another restaurant stop greeted us at the dock! After the group filled their tummies with hot entrees and cold bubbly beverages, we boarded the ferry across Nitinat Narrows. We got lucky with a special tour to the mouth of the narrows and the open ocean before getting dropped on the other side. Day 5 was our biggest distance day on the trip. Our team arrived at a perfect campsite right beside Tsusiat Falls just in time for dinner!
Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek
- Distance: 12.8 km
- Duration: 5 h 48 min
- Peak: 57 m
- Gain: 188 m
The hike out of Tsusiat Falls Camp began with a multi-ladder climb up to the main trail. We topped up our water bottles from clean, clear potholes above the falls. The trail is smoother along these sections with many spectacular viewpoints from the cliff tops. We enjoyed some brand new boardwalk to Klanawa River, where half the group rode the cable car and the other half hiked across on the gravel bar. The route to Trestle Creek was easy going. We were also treated to a few rusty artifacts and historical interpretation. A derelict steam donkey engine and old grader implement were interesting machines to see. These tools indicated that we weren’t too far from civilization and road access. We had a nice rest at the only Parks Canada Red Chairs along the entire trail. After Tscowis Creek bridge and waterfalls, we took the inland trail to Darling Creek. There was a yearling black bear between Darling River and Michigan Creek. We viewed the curious little bear from a safe distance as he sauntered along the beach logs. We arrived at Michigan Creek Camp at 1414 h, which gave us plenty of time to enjoy our final evening of beach camping, waterfront dining, and ocean sunsets!
Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
- Distance: 11.6 km
- Duration: 3 h 15 min
- Peak: 111 m
- Gain: 273 m
Our final day on the trail began with a fantastic wildlife sighting! We viewed a black bear mom and her cub from our camp during breakfast coffee. The two bears were about 200 m away on the west end of the beach at Michigan Creek. Like us, they slowly moved about the logs while foraging for their morning breakfast! After the bear sighting, our crew was eager to meet our driver Greg at the trailhead. The hike out to Pachena Bay from Michigan Creek is always the fastest 12 km of the trip. The terrain bumps along old logging grades with a few easier ups and downs. We skipped the last ladders and followed the smooth beach section on a low tide. This time we broke the record to Pachena Bay with a super fast time of 3 h 15 min! We met Greg around noon and clambered into our private shuttle van. The group all agreed that our first stop would be the Bamfield Market Cafe for brunch! We arrived back in Victoria at 1800 h and everyone was happily in their hot showers before dinner. Pizza time!
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 7-13, 2017
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 203 m
- Gain: 2085 m
- Route: CalTopo
We had a wonderful group for our second West Coast Trail trip of the season! Everyone was connected in some way via friendship or family. The result was a strong team that encouraged each other through all the challenges and obstacles. After almost a full year of planning, preparation, and training, we finally met face-to-face for our shared coastal adventure. The trail conditions were the driest we had ever experienced and the camps seemed less crowded. Fog obscured our ocean views some of the time, but we were happy for cooler hiking temperatures on most days.
Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove
- Distance: 5.3 km
- Duration: 6 h 2 min
- Peak: 203 m
- Gain: 465 m
The start of our hike was challenging with a big ladder bottleneck and full backpacks. As we took a snack break at the donkey engine, one of the ladies noticed a small mother black bear and cub downslope. She encouraged her baby to climb a tree while she sniffed us. After a few minutes, they disappeared into the forest. The rest of the rolling hike to Thrasher was excellent as the trail was almost mud-free. Thrasher Camp was not as crowded as past trips. We claimed a sliver of beach behind a giant log, while the ladies enjoyed the forest group site. A fisher joined us for dinner, eating crab close to our group. The mice came out in full force after dusk. We thought of the clever rats in The Secret of Nimh and closed the holes on our backpacks before retiring to bed.
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay
- Distance: 7.5 km
- Duration: 7 h 5 min
- Peak: 72 m
- Gain: 234 m
Our big challenge was the impressive boulder field from Thrasher Cove to Owen Point. We got an early start at 0700 h and made our way though the barnacles. After a tough slog, the team reached Owen Point at 1030 h. Harbour seals basked on Owen Island as we hiked west over the sandstone moonscape. Beach Access A was a perfect place for a long break before entering the rain forest. We arrived at Camper Creek (no cable car required) and found good sites under the trees and on the sand. Our early arrival meant lots of time to explore and relax. Some of us walked over the gravel bar to the edge of the ocean. As always, the Pacific was a cold and refreshing bathtub. The calls of ravens echoed down the sandstone cliffs as we dried. After dinner, we had a wonderful conversation with a Swiss fellow who was yo-yoing the trail with his wife. He told us all about his hiking and paragliding adventures.
Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek
- Distance: 9.5 km
- Duration: 8 h 26 min
- Peak: 118 m
- Gain: 390 m
Dry conditions increased our chances of success on the big ladder day! We tackled the systems at Camper, Sandstone, Cullite, Logan, and finally Walbran. Dropping down to Walbran Creek Camp was sweet as the difficult sections were now behind us. We secured the large forest group site out of the wind and enjoyed a swim in green Walbran pond. The cool water was therapy for sore leg muscles. We collected water far upstream from the humans and watched several small trout hide in submerged logs. One of our ladies made a warm fire for after dinner relaxing. Some of us walked a little west to preview the next day’s route. The gravel bar over Walbran Creek was intact and would be our bridge the next morning. Fresh water flowed under the bar and into the ocean in a massive, silent trickle. Another cable car avoided!
Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
- Distance: 11.4 km
- Duration: 6 h 47 min
- Peak: 60 m
- Gain: 96 m
The day’s terrain was a mix of boulders, shelves, wet sand, dry sand, and pea gravel. We encountered our first rusty shipwreck artifact on the flat tidal shelf. Sea stacks loomed in the gray mist while bald eagles patrolled the beach. A homemade bridge spanned Carmanah Creek, well-engineered with logs and rope. Chez Monique’s was almost deserted when we arrived, so we enjoyed a picnic in the sun. After visiting the whale skeleton at the Carmanah Light Station, we hiked to Cribs Creek. The group set up a spacious camp in the middle of the long sandy beach. Fog hid the sea lions beyond the breakwater, but we heard them barking and arguing into the evening.
Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
- Distance: 16.7 km
- Duration: 9 h 53 min
- Peak: 44 m
- Gain: 290 m
The Cribs breakwater sheltered mussels, green sea anemones, and sea stars. A river otter family ran around the rock formations near Dare Beach, escaping into the ocean. After enjoying the intertidal animals, we tried a new forest section of the trail. After climbing the ladder at Beach Access B, we hiked the inland trail to Cheewhat Beach. This forest section was quicker, as the trail was dry and there were only a few ladders. We recommend this bypass to save time as the beach section is bouldery. Our team enjoyed Clo-oose, with new boardwalks, Nitinat Narrows ferry, and pocket beaches. The tides stopped us from passing through the famous Hole-in-the-Wall. After a few more beach kilometres, we set up camp east of Tsusiat Falls. Our most exciting adventure was attempting a food hang above the stuffed food locker. The evening was too cold for swimming in the Tsusiat pool. The only creatures braving the water were seagulls.
Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek
- Distance: 12.8 km
- Duration: 7 h 41 min
- Peak: 58 m
- Gain: 288 m
The day was a mix of cruisey trail, artifacts, beach, boardwalk, and a few ladders. We even found the famous whale carcass that was half-buried in the sand near Orange Juice Creek. Our biggest challenge was the expected rain storm at Michigan Creek Camp. We crossed the creek to the west shore and set up shelters before the first drops fell. Soon the rain fell hard and the wind blew cold. We ate dinner under the tarp, stowed our food in the locker, brushed our teeth, and dove into our sleeping bags. There was no time to wipe sand off our feet and enter the tent without bringing in the beach. The rain pounded for hours, and the wind shook our tents. The ocean sounds were loud and thrashing. The sky was completely black. The sleeping bags were full of sand. Yet we were cozy and dry in our little houses while the storm swirled around us.
Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
- Distance: 11.6 km
- Duration: 3 h 0 min
- Peak: 118 m
- Gain: 322 m
The rain and wind stopped at 0400 h. We had survived a real west coast rain storm! Everyone stayed dry overnight and the only wet gear were the tent and tarps. An early start guaranteed a relaxed pace for our final day on the West Coast Trail. We didn’t want to rush and stumble, but rather soak up this easy hike. The night rain had brightened the leaves and forest moss. The air was fresh and fragrant. After visiting Pachena Light Station, we took the side trip to view the sea lion haul-out. The day’s highlight was hiking the side trail at Clonard Creek to the beach. This low tide route avoids a final ladder system, and our group was happy to do so! We walked into the sunshine of glorious Pachena Bay and ended our adventure on a warm (and dry) note. With a few hours to spare, we found some chips and pop at the little camp store and dried our gear on the lawn. Excellent group and a big achievement for all!
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 23-29, 2017
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 7 days
- Peak: 203 m
- Gain: 2087 m
- Route: CalTopo
Conditions were fantastic for our first West Coast Trail trip of the season. The trail was dry and we had sunny skies most of the week. We were lucky to start our hike during a low-volume window of hikers. The result was quieter campsites and roomier food lockers. The ranger and sign boards at our Parks Canada orientation described recent abundant wildlife sightings. There was lots of animal sign visible on the trail, including wolf tracks and bear scat on beaches. As always, the marine ecosystem was vibrant with all forms of sea life. Coastal birds were frequent companions.
Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove
- Distance: 5.3 km
- Duration: 6 h 32 min
- Peak: 201 m
- Gain: 465 m
Gordon Bay is a great place to view wildlife before setting boots on the trail. After orientation, we waited at the picnic table for our ferry ride. River otters crawled along the rocks. A Pacific wren sang his typewriter song in the undergrowth. The route from Gordon Bay to Thrasher Cove was unseasonably dry with little moisture and mud. We noticed how the boardwalks and bridges had deteriorated in this section. The wooden structures melted into the rain forest.
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay
- Distance: 7.5 km
- Duration: 9 h 7 min
- Peak: 72 m
- Gain: 235 m
The boulder field between Thrasher Cove and Owen Point was extra challenging in the hot sun. The rocks in the tide line are slippery rain or shine, but our team made it through with focus. We spotted harbour seals lounging off Owen Point. They seemed to enjoy this particular kelp forest zone. It was sometimes hard to distinguish the head of a seal from the surrounding bull kelp. Harbour seals live for 20 – 30 years and stay close to their favourite places. We may hike by some of the same individuals year after year. We enjoyed the low tide route all the way to Beach Access A before the shelf flooded.
Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek
- Distance: 9.5 km
- Duration: 9 h 38 min
- Peak: 118 m
- Gain: 390 m
We hiked through the usual mud and ladder systems of this inland section. We welcomed all the new sections of boardwalk and a viewpoint deck with bench. The route still had many leftover rotting boards, keeping us on high alert. The maintenance of these structures is a never-ending job. Even though we were in the forest the whole day, the sun beat down hot through the leaves. Arriving at Walbran Creek was a treat because the afternoon was cool and restful. The cable car hung motionless and eerie in the lowering light as we collected water upstream. Small trout swam above the clean gravel while eagles watched from above. There is a cave across the Walbran pond that some people like to camp in. River otters love it too!
Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
- Distance: 11.4 km
- Duration: 5 h 59 min
- Peak: 60 m
- Gain: 95 m
Easy hiking on hard-packed sand and a visit to Chez Monique’s made for a nice recovery day. An early arrival at Cribs Creek Camp gave us the opportunity to watch the wildlife. The sea lions were barking on their usual rock, but the real drama was the air show! A bald eagle caught a seagull in mid-air and ate him for dinner. He was the unlucky one in his raucous flock. Crows chased ravens up and down the beach. Even though both birds are of the corvid family, they compete for resources. We’ve observed that crows have a low tolerance for their large raven cousins on many occasions.
Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
- Distance: 16.7 km
- Duration: 7 h 59 min
- Peak: 44 m
- Gain: 292 m
We hiked the low tide route out of Cribs Creek and most of the way to Clo-oose. After a short jaunt inland we rejoined the beach almost all the way. We weren’t quite in time to take the low tide route through Hole-in-the Wall. This feature remains unconquered! The fog had burned off, making our final approach to Tsusiat Falls Camp hot and sunny. The pea gravel was relentless over these final kilometres. We often see humpback whales to cheer us along this section, but no spouts were visible. Instead, we saw more sea lion friends. Our favourite corvids dominated the pocket beaches: ravens, crows, and Steller’s jays. Tsusiat Falls had good flow on arrival. We camped on the west side of the falls and enjoyed an evening of fine weather and recovery from the long day.
Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek
- Distance: 12.8 km
- Duration: 6 h 22 min
- Peak: 58 m
- Gain: 288 m
The fog was a welcome coolant for another day of beach hiking. We pulled the cable car over the Klanawa River and had a break at the campsite. There was a beached whale carcass half buried in the gravel near Orange Juice Creek. One can imagine the power of the winter storms that drove his massive body into the ground. This decaying flesh was not something to spend much time around, especially downwind. Southbound hikers reported sighting a mother black bear and cub 500 m north of Darling River. Others mentioned that they saw a cougar between the 7 km and 8 km trail markers between Pachena Bay and Michigan Creek. With high hopes, we eventually made it to Michigan Creek Camp without our own sighting.
Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
- Distance: 11.9 km
- Duration: 4 h 18 min
- Peak: 118 m
- Gain: 322 m
Our final northbound section of the West Coast Trail was cruisey, sunny, and warm. We took the side trail to see the sea lion haul out near Pachena Point Light Station. The single track forest highway was a welcome finish to our backpacking adventure. We even took the final low tide bypass to Pachena Bay and avoided the last ladders. After arriving at the trailhead, we finally saw our black bear! He was in the meadow munching on berries at the edge of the trees. After the Parks Canada Ranger scared him away, we rested on the lawn to wait for the shuttle. Our first West Coast Trail adventure of the summer was an excellent trip. Dry conditions, quiet campsites, and lots of wildlife!
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 5-12, 2016
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 8 days
- Peak: 205 m
- Gain: 2023 m
- Route: CalTopo
We were thrilled to share the West Coast Trail with very special guests from Belgium this year! Our team took eight days to enjoy this world-famous coastal hike. We generally had great weather…only a couple of showery days at the start. The hot sun showed its face for our easier northern sections. The team was strong and resilient, tackling obstacles with excellent humour and persistence. We saw a few whales, tons of seals and eagles, and millions of barnacles and sea anemones. Highlights of this trip included an orca pod, camping near emerald Owen Point, a humpback whale close to shore, and spending time with wonderful folks who love the Canadian west coast as much as we do!
Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove
The shuttle bus driver was efficient and professional. There are many stops along the way as the bus also services the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. We arrived at the West Coast Trail Information Centre with time to weigh our packs on the “scale of shame.” The ranger who presented our Parks Canada Orientation was fantastic. He had a relaxed attitude and was a real naturalist…an expert in kelp and seaweed! The best advice he gave was to “take it slow.” He reminded us that we would be forced to walk with great care on the trail, and that sometimes we would come almost to a standstill. Rushing on the West Coast Trail may result in injury.
The first few hours of any backpacking journey are the most difficult. Our trip was no exception. With a full week of food, our packs required periodic adjustments over the day. Our team also got an abrupt introduction to West Coast Trail ladders. The new Gordon River trailhead features a vertical climb right off the landing beach! There were several smaller ladders over the day, with the biggest system dropping us down to busy Thrasher Cove that evening. We managed to find a semi-private campsite at the south end of the beach behind a huge log.
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Owen Point
The boulder field from Thrasher Cove to Owen Point is one of the hardest sections of the West Coast Trail. We left camp at 0745h on a lowering tide to make it to Owen Point before 1300h. The weather was showery and foggy, and hiking was slow. The boulders were a serious challenge! They started off small like cobbles, gradually grew to the size of cars, and ultimately transformed into small houses. Our team made Owen Point before tidal cut-off, but we stopped early instead of rushing the tidal shelves.
Our private “bivy” beach campsite just south of Owen Point turned out to be a favourite. We had a waterfall for fresh water, flat sandy spots for our tents, a place to pitch a big kitchen tarp…and no other campers next door! There were a bunch of seals resting on Owen Island, brown and furry. When it was time for a meal, their round heads swam and dove among the bull kelp. It was a great spot to recover and reflect on conquering the boulder field.
Day 3: Owen Point to Cullite Creek
After an excellent rest, we passed Owen Point just as the tide lowered to let us through. The sea caves here were awesome, with ocean-scoured rooms and windows looking out towards the seals. A moonscape of surge channels and tide pools paved the route for the next few kilometres. Our group took a break at one of the nicest transition spots on the trail, Beach Access A. Orcas swam by as we snacked. After entering the rainforest and turning LEFT we encountered broken boardwalks, mud, and ladders. We stopped at Camper Bay for lunch and watched two Trail Guardians come ashore with a heavily-loaded zodiac. They saw the orcas from their boat and were excited too!
After a heart-hammering climb out of Camper Creek, we continued through kilometres of mud, big ladders, fallen logs, boardwalks, and bridges. Rain showers increased over the afternoon. One fellow walking the opposite way muttered that he “hated” this and wanted to go back to the mountains! After a few more hours, more southbound hikers asked how much longer the mud lasted. We smiled and tried to be encouraging. The terrain was hard for all of us, as mental focus was required for almost every step. Eventually, we arrived at our final ladder of the day…the steep ladder system of Cullite Creek. After a quick breather at the top, we stowed rain ponchos and slowly dropped to sea level.
Cullite Creek Camp was packed when we arrived. Sardine City! The site is off the main trail by several hundred metres. It’s a great spot, but located in a narrow cove at the base of sandstone cliffs. Our guests made friends with new neighbours from Vancouver, while we pitched camp on a strange platform of desiccated bull kelp. We noticed that there was good camping on the gravel bar as we hiked in along the creek. However, we opted for tight beach spots rather than backtrack. A pebble pile dammed the Cullite outlet and created a deep green pool for washing mud off the legs.
Day 4: Cullite Creek to Carmanah Creek
The climb out of Cullite was a wake-up, with near vertical ladders and cool temperatures. Once we got to the top, we were treated to an overland bog with boardwalk. The Logan Creek ladders plus a super-high suspension bridge was a thrilling section. One of the ladders was at a low angle, so we needed to push our body and pack weights away from the structure as we moved along it. After more mud and roots, we finally dropped to the shores of Walbran Creek. It was a joyous moment, because Walbran Creek marks the end of the tougher sections. Our team took lunch break here, and cleaned off mud in the big lagoon. It was strange to see this camp almost empty, as it is a popular stop in the evenings.
The tides were in our favour and there was a huge pebble bar across Walbran Creek. We committed to the beach route and made excellent time, enjoying more tidal shelves and sea stacks. Our team passed Bonilla Camp, which looked like a great place to stop with its pretty waterfall and forest sites. However, the goal was to hike a little further and rest on the massive beach near Carmanah Creek. A low fog rolled in to cloak our final stretch, and we crossed the creek just as it started to flood with the tide. There was tons of room to spread tents at Carmanah. We collected water far upstream of the sea gull swimming pool. Our guests chose a fine spot next to a small stone pit and built us a toasty campfire.
Day 5: Carmanah Creek to Cribs Creek
Our group wandered down the beach to Chez Monique’s restaurant after a leisurely morning. The “veggie burger” was only for vegetarians; however, it turned out to be an omelette on a bun! And non-vegetarians weren’t allowed the “omelette” because breakfast was over. Makes sense, right? Monique spoke with our guests and immediately knew what part of Belgium they were from. Some of us stocked up on ju-jubes for the rest of the trip.
As we hung out with full bellies, a guy rushed in with a bleeding face. He was running the trail in one day as a poacher (no fees). After wolfing down lunch, he sprang off on what must have been pure adrenalin. We left the restaurant at a much slower pace. The Carmanah Lighthouse was a fun side trip with its huge blue views and silent whale skeleton. After returning to the forest trail and turning left, we made our way back to the beach for the short hike to Cribs Creek.
Day 6: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
We got an early start as our longest distance day was upon us. Low tide occurred at noon, so conditions were perfect for the beach route. Leaving Cribs Creek along the natural breakwater is preferred over the rough, muddy forest section. Close to Dare Point we spotted our first whale of the trip…a humpback rolling in the waves near shore. This was a great section with shipwreck artifacts and hiking on sandstone shelves high above the ocean. We encountered our first ladder with a missing rung at Dare Point. This obstacle was stressful to navigate and required a calculated approach.
The fog arrived just as we started hiking the long length of Cheewhat Beach. The inland access is easy to miss; if you hit the Cheewhat River, you’ve gone too far and need to backtrack. The forest boardwalks of Cloose were almost all new and our feet enjoyed the freedom. The First Nations run a crab shack at Nitinat Narrows. We ate massive baked potatoes while our guests enjoyed the daily specials. The system is efficient considering the number of hikers that move through this bottleneck. The fellow that gave edible flowers to the women at lunch ferried us across the narrows with an extra spin to see an eagle’s nest. He dropped us off with some candies for our pocket…but only for the ladies!
During the third leg of our long day, fatigue set into our muscles. In and out of beach and forest sections led us to the final obstacle…the famous Hole-in-the-Wall! Ultimately, the tides pushed us over the bypass route. A few kilometres of beach hiking brought us to the south end of Tsusiat Falls Camp. We dropped our gear and stayed south, noticing huge crowds near the falls. The food locker was stuffed that night, and most people ended up “hanging” food bags with limited success.
Day 7: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek
The morning dawned clear for the first time on our trip. We took the cable car across the Klanawa River, but later realized this was an unnecessary adventure. The gravel bar across the river was intact. Klanawa Camp was a great spot to spread out gear and dry it on massive logs in the sun. After a warm and sunny beach hike, we popped inland at Trestle Creek to enjoy the Valencia Bluffs and the famous red Parks Canada Adirondack chairs! We entered the beach once again at Tsocowis, and look a long rest in the shade to drink water and apply sunscreen.
The remainder of the day was a classic Vancouver Island beach hike with sun, sandstone shelves, pea gravel, and cool breezes. There was a Trail Guardian Cabin at Tsocowis and a grand pile of rusty shipwreck debris. The tides were good and we found the best micro-routes through the coastal terrain. On such a hot afternoon with sun exposure, we took shade breaks at Orange Juice Creek and Darling Creek. The team pushed to Michigan Creek so our final day would be shorter. We loved the colourful sunset after dinner and went to bed with the sound of surf crashing on the shelf.
Day 8: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
After a early uphill scramble off the beach, we hit our stride on the relatively easy trail to Pachena Bay. We visited the Pachena Point Lighthouse and rejoined the trail by turning left. The last 12 km evolved into the smoothest of the trip with good bridges, less mud, less roots, gentle ups and downs…and fewer ladders! Views of turquoise Pachena Bay peeked through the trees, encouraging us to keep hiking. There was one final long ladder just before the trailhead, to remind us of the fun times. Once we stepped off the last rung and our boots hit the dirt, we knew we had done it. The trailhead sign was a welcome sight! After the euphoria of completing our objective in style, we refreshed with a swim in warm Pachena Bay. While drying off we watched fresh new hikers being their southbound journey.
The shuttle ride from Pachena Bay to Victoria took about 6-hours. Despite the organ-shaking journey, we fell asleep until arriving at the junk food stop in Youbou. Eventually, we were dropped off in the middle of downtown Victoria madness. The front of the Royal BC Museum was the hub of summertime action. As we unloaded our dirty gear, a Japanese tour bus pulled up behind our shuttle. The folks getting off were fresh and clean, dressed for a night on the town. We could smell the scent of shampoo and soap. It a big contrast to our busload of vagabonds. After sorting out group gear, it was time for hugs and goodbyes, and promises to meet up again during another trip to Canada!
Summary
We had an epic adventure on the West Coast Trail this season. Our team agreed that northbound was probably the best direction, even though the first few days were harder. No one favoured the idea of tackling the big ladders near the end when cumulative fatigue would have set in. One day we will complete a southbound journey to test that theory.
Our Belgium friends were delighted to complete this Canadian adventure! It was a huge pleasure to share the trail with them, and help them achieve a lifetime goal. They said it was one of the hardest things they had ever done…and these folks were fit, seasoned, world-travelled adventurers. That’s what makes the West Coast Trail special..the experience is a big challenge beyond all expectations and imagination.
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 17-22, 2015
- Distance: 75 km
- Duration: 6 days
- Peak: 202 m
- Gain: 2009 m
- Route: CalTopo
Hiking the 75 km West Coast Trail for the first time was a shared, life-changing experience that Mike and I will never forget. Located on Vancouver Island as one of three Pacific Rim National Park Reserve units, this world-famous trail exceeded all dreams and predictions. Opting to complete the most difficult sections first, we started at the Gordon River Trailhead (Port Renfrew) and hiked northbound to the Pachena Bay Trailhead (Bamfield). This direction made for increasingly wilder and scenic days, as the familiar shadow of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula fell behind us. Backpacking the West Coast Trail with so many international hikers felt like a special camaraderie. We were part of a grand fellowship, participating in a legendary and historic challenge. Everyone was excited all the time as they traded stories of wildlife sightings, terrain obstacles, and offered encouragement. Even though one is rarely alone on the West Coast Trail, we still found quieter spots to set up our beach camps. A wee bit further to the creek or the food locker, but the rewards were substantial. There are many places to carve out pockets of seclusion, while still feeling the togetherness which makes this trail special. Our West Coast Trail experience was completely different from that of the North Coast Trail, which we also hiked this season.
Day 1: Gordon Bay to Thrasher Cove
For the first time ever, we left for a backpacking trip on foot from our home. We used the West Coast Trail Express, which departed from the downtown Victoria Bus Depot at 0600 h. How wonderful to doze on the ride up to Port Renfrew West Coast Trail Information Centre! Our boots hit the trailhead (75 km) at around 1130 h, after obtaining maps and permits, receiving our mandatory orientation from Parks Canada, and getting ferried across Gordon River. It was super exciting to finally be on the real-live West Coast Trail, and a little surreal. The first few kilometres were busy with tired southbound hikers, some remarking how fresh and clean we looked. Our day was spent entirely in the forest, climbing up and down gullies and navigating short ladders and slippery roots. This section reminded me of the Juan de Fuca Trail, with second-growth forest and proximity to Port Renfrew. There were some fascinating logging artifacts along this stretch, included a curious rusty steam donkey. When Mike and I arrived at the junction to Thrasher Cove (70 km), we decided to camp at Thrasher for the night and save energy. We carefully descended our first big ladder system to the beach and found a quiet place among the logs to pitch our tent. The cove was small and crowded, but a fine place to rest at the end of a travel day from the urban. After a hearty dinner, we went to bed crazy early for an excellent sleep.
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Walbran Creek
Our second day was long, strenuous, spectacular, and rewarding. The experience proved to be one of my hardest backpacking days in recent memory. The tide was on its way out that morning, so we decided to hike the coastal route to Owen Point (67 km) and see the sea caves. The terrain was lots of fun, with stones and boulders getting progressively bigger as we went on. The ruggedness eventually melted into green tidal shelves, a final treat before rejoining the forest. We then entered the real challenge…endless big ladder systems, muddy single-track, and decaying boardwalk. We couldn’t move fast through these obstacles, although we skipped the cable cars because of low creek levels. The ladder system at the Logan Creek suspension bridge (56 km) felt especially taxing mentally, as the descending ladder crossed an exposed slope, and the ascending ladder was practically vertical. Inexplicably, I felt better when ladders were surrounded by soft green ferns, even if just as steep. I was happy when we finally descended to the beach at Walbran Creek (53 km). I removed my backpack and rested on a log while Mike scouted for a camp spot. My mind was feverish with fatigue and our accomplished goal. After a quick set up, Mike insisted we wash the mud off our bodies in the ocean. I sat in the sand, feeling too stiff and hazy to mobilize. Before I could think, I jumped into the cold break and scoured my skin clean with pebbles and sand. The sun had just set, the sky was purple, and the moon looked like a silver banana. I dunked under to quickly rinse. I felt so much better afterwards, eating dinner nice and clean, sleeping soundly with cooled muscles, refreshed under the stars.
Day 3: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
With the hardest portion of the West Coast Trail behind us, I awoke with renewed strength and excitement for our third day. The morning tides were again in our favour, so we forded Walbran Creek and took to the beach route. After two nights on the trail, Mike and I were really feeling the West Coast Trail wilderness. Today was a big beach day and the sun beat down hot on the sand. One of our shady rest spots revealed a massive brown bull kelp forest and a family of river otters. We hiked on flat tidal shelves when possible, looking into the maze of emerald tide pools for marine life. Most pools contained several armies of battling hermit crabs…there was a whole universe in every one. With each tide cycle, a new set of opponents and adventures would be revealed to the crustaceous warriors. We passed Bonilla Creek (48 km) and Carmanah Creek (46 km), two excellent camps for a future trip. The beach at Carmanah was vast and sandy, like Long Beach with big turquoise surf. Incredibly, we stopped at a restaurant along this beach. Chez Monique is a little canteen that sells meals, candy, and cold drinks. We enjoyed snacks and the cool shade of the green tarp. Monique talked with us for an hour, while her little grandson pointed out all the whales and eagles. When I asked him how many whales he saw each day, he exclaimed, “Too many!” After watching “too many” whales in the bay, we climbed into the forest to visit the Carmanah Lighthouse (44 km). Our camp for the night was the popular Cribs Creek (41 km) with its strange natural breakwater. Mike and I arrived in the afternoon with plenty of time to set up a tarp and take a Thermarest nap before dinner. The fog rain later cooled us from our hot day. We went to bed early, listening to music and the waves smashing against the rock.
Day 4: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
This day was my favourite of the whole trip, with emerald tidal shelves, cliffs with vistas, sandstone moonscapes, folding rock formations, tiny sea anemones in long straight lines, shipwreck artifacts, and constant whales. We departed up and over the natural breakwater towards Dare Point. This section felt very remote, as we encountered fewer people and moved under an overcast sky. After some grand beach hiking, we entered the forest and crossed the Cheewhat River bridge (36 km). Mike found the small fresh water spring that Monique shared location details about. The trail took us through the historic First Nations area of Clo-oose. There was lots of wet boardwalk in this section, and we met some friendly trail guardians performing the endless repairs. The backpacker concentration skyrocketed as we approached Nitinat Narrows (33 km). There was another canteen here, with more food and cold drinks for purchase while you hung out on the dock. Fortunately we still had currency easily accessible! After crossing, we passed through Whyac and more forest near Tsuquadra Point (30 km), then hit the beach for the final sandy slog to camp. The sun shone hot and yellow, and I was mildly dehydrated. I felt a sense of urgency to move faster. Even though we were very close to camp, Mike suggested we sit, have a drink and snack, watch the whales for a while, then finish the day at a relaxed pace. It felt so much better to arrive at camp refreshed with stamina to find the best tent spot! Tsusiat Falls (25 km) was a gorgeous campsite, but popular with lots of groups. We set up on the quieter north end, found a secret secondary food locker, and enjoyed a cleansing soak before drying off in the sun.
Day 5: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek
Our packs were noticeably lighter as we floated up the Tsusiat Falls ladder system to regain the forest. Mike and I were totally in the coastal backpacker groove by this point, and the trail was getting easier each day. Less muddy roots and more cruisey single-track. As we moved northwest, it felt incredible to look back and see how far we had come. I was amazed at our accomplishment thus far. Today’s terrain was a mix of beach and forest, the usual boardwalk, and a few ladders. We even rode our one and only cable car across the Klanawa River (23 km). Valencia Bluffs (18 km), named after a famous shipwreck, offered a huge panoramic cliff vista. Two “official Parks Canada” red adirondack chairs were perched on the viewpoint. As they were already occupied, we gobbled lunch at the base of beautiful Tsocowis Creek falls (17 km). It was a the perfect time to Lego-brick the food, count our energy bars, and ration out the last of the chocolate. The sun beat down hot again, slowing our movement along the beach sections. We made it to Darling River (14 km) super early and considered spending the night here. There is a beautiful falls just up from the beach, crashing into an emerald pool with excellent outflow. However, the next day was our final one, so we decided to hike just a little further to Michigan Creek (12 km). After set up of our last camp, there was time to relax in the rays and soak over the tidal shelf. Mike said the water temperature was “just like Parksville,” which was not true. Michigan Creek is the first camp for southbound hikers; we met a few curious groups just starting their trek. We reported that there were definitely too many whales.
Day 6: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay
The stars were still visible when the alarm went off. I was proud of myself for not losing gear in the sand. We delayed breakfast and instead grabbed our food bags from the overflowing locker on the way out. Michigan Creek was a crowded camp, with tents pitched close to the entrance of the trail. We crept quietly by headlamp; the only folks awake were guides making coffee for their folks. Once we climbed off the beach, the trail quickly became a beautiful highway. We stopped to check out the quiet Pachena Lighthouse (10 km) and grab an energy bar for the final kilometres. Mike and I settled into a peaceful pace, loving the deep cool green of the morning forest and the smooth trail. We were practically skipping with glee when we encountered our final ladder of the trip above Pachena Bay. The trailhead came too soon though…somehow I missed tapping the 1 km marker. But once I saw the final Pacific Rim National Park sign (0 km), I was dizzy with emotion over the achievement of this dream. The Coastal Sea Ventures water taxi ferried us all the way from Bamfield to Victoria Harbour. After a four-hour trip watching the West Coast Trail and other landmarks fly by, we disembarked into crazy Fisherman’s Wharf. I grabbed veggie burgers while Mike found us a spot to eat in the nearby park. As I climbed a now unfamiliar concrete ramp, I found him sitting in two red metal adirondack chairs, “Just like the ones at Valencia Bluffs!” We watched the chaos for a while with our backpacks at our feet, immune to the jarring energy of the urban. After walking home, we finally closed the loop of our route and the peaceful wilderness feeling was still intact.