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Welcome to our West Coast Trail Guide! This resource includes information and tips to help plan your adventure in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. To skip to a specific topic of interest, use the quick links below for easier navigation.

Highlights
Overview
Map
Guide Book
Fees
Access
West Coast Trail Express
Accommodations
Weather
Tides
Route
South to North vs North to South
Campsites
Trip Reports

Highlights

Hiking north from Walbran Camp marks a transition between the most difficult sections of the trail and the more moderate sections. We experienced fog and rain that morning, but were happy with flat tidal shelves and tide pools.

World famous shared experience. Most people have heard of the West Coast Trail. You will share your adventure with enthusiastic hikers from all over the world. Some have travelled a very long way. Most have planned this bucket-list adventure for years. Parks Canada calls the West Coast Trail the Hike of a Lifetime.
Incredible physical and mental challenge. The 75 km West Coast Trail has many natural and man-made obstacles. The unbelievable wooden ladder systems test your strength and courage. The slippery boulder fields and muddy roots keep you sharp. Being trained for these challenges helps make the trip more enjoyable and safe.
Fascinating First Nations and European history. The Pacheedaht, Ditidaht, and Huu-ay-aht First Nations have lived and traveled the west coast for thousands of years prior to European contact. The Dominion Lifesaving Trail was constructed to help shipwreck survivors in the area. The modern West Coast Trail passes through this fascinating Graveyard of the Pacific.
Remarkable natural wonders and wildlife. Even though this hike is busy and popular, wildlife is abundant. Black bears, whales, river otters, eagles, ravens, and sea birds are familiar friends along the way. Both the rainforest and seashore sections of the West Coast Trail inspire hikers to love and care for Pacific Rim National Park.
Amazing geologic features. The beach sections of the West Coast Trail are unparalleled in scenery. Wide rock shelves, natural rock bridges, sea caves, coal seams, sea stacks, surge channels, sandstone cliffs, rocky headlands, water erosion are amazing geologic features that will bring out the rock hound in everyone.

Overview

We were happy to hike north from Walbran Creek because the more difficult parts of the trail were behind us. The tides were low enough for us to use the tidal shelves as a route.

Location: West Coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
Park: Pacific Rim National Park Reserve – West Coast Trail Unit
First Nations: Pacheedaht, Ditidaht, and Huu-ay-aht
Distance: 75 km
Duration: Typically completed in 6-8 days, depending on fitness and desire
Difficulty: Complex coastal and rainforest terrain (experienced backpackers only)
Open: May 1 to September 30
Peak season: June 15 to September 15
Permits: Required
Total Fees: $248.50 per person to hike the trail end-to-end, plus National Park Entry Fees (Youth 17 and under are free for entry fees only)
Reservations: Required for permits and shuttles
Pets: Prohibited
Maximum group size: 10 people
Trailheads: Gordon River (Port Renfrew), Pachena Bay (Bamfield), Nitinat Village
Ferry crossings: Two (Gordon River and Nitinat Narrows)
Cable car crossings: Five creeks (Camper, Cullite, Walbran, Carmanah, Klanawa)
Camping: 13 sites (12 with water sources, food lockers, and cedar-composting toilets)
Structures: Ladders, cable cars, suspension bridges, boardwalks, docks
Major shipwrecks: Approximately 24 sites
Geologic features: Rock shelves, sea stacks, sandstone cliffs, sea caves, headlands, water erosion
Wildlife: Gray whales, humpback whales, orcas, seals, sea lions, black bears, wolves, cougars, eagles, ravens, sea birds, river otters, slugs, intertidal animals
Weather: Heavy rain, cool temperatures, high winds, damp fog, hot sun
Hazards: Slippery roots, deep mud, steep slopes, washouts, blowdowns, fallen logs, tide problems, deep sand, pebbles, boulders, tidal shelves, rocky shorelines, impassible headlands, creek crossings, tidal creeks, tidal lake, tsunamis, rouge waves, floods, landslides, broken structures
Emergency help:
- Parks Canada coordinates all emergency calls and safety protocols
- Follow the Evacuation Information Form issued with the WCT Overnight Use Permit
- Call 1-250-726-3604 (monitored 24 hours/day) or send written message for help
- Evacuation points are Thrasher Cove, Camper Bay, Cullite Cove, Walbran, Carmanah Light Station, Nitinat Narrows, Tsocowis Creek, or Pachena Light Station
- Get help from Parks Canada staff, First Nations Trail Guardians, lighthouse keepers, or ferry operators

Map

There are a few sections on the West Coast Trail that could be considered “easy”. It’s pretty cruisey through the upland bog if the boards are dry and not rotten or missing.

Parks Canada publishes a new West Coast Trail map every so often. You receive a paper copy after your orientation.

Parks Canada. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. West Coast Trail Map . Bamfield to Port Renfrew, Vancouver Island.

The other essential publication is the Parks Canada West Coast Trail Hiker Preparation Guide. This document is updated every year and is required reading for trip planning and preparation.

Parks Canada. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. West Coast Trail: 2023 Hiker Preparation Guide

Guide Book

The Logan Creek Suspension Bridge is a highlight of the West Coast Trail. You crawl down a long ladder system to get to the bridge. After crossing the dizzying span, you climb out on another big system.

We have used a few different guidebooks to plan trips on the West Coast Trail. Our favourite is Blisters and Bliss. The new 10th edition is now available!

Foster D, Aitken W. Blisters and Bliss – A Trekker’s Guide to the West Coast Trail. 10th ed. B & B Publishing. 2022. blistersbliss.com
Leadem T. Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island: An updated and comprehensive guide to all major trails. Greystone Books. 2015. www.greystonebooks.com
Stone P. Coastal Hikes: A Guide to West Coast Hiking in British Columbia and Washington State. 1st ed. Wild Isle Publications. 2007. www.wildisle.ca

Fees

There is nothing like the feeling of finishing the West Coast Trail! Emotions ran bittersweet as we passed the famous Parks Canada permit reminder sign. It was time for high-fives, hugs, and the last of our snacks!

Parks Canada charges each person $248.50 in Total Fees to hike the entire West Coast Trail end-to-end. This cost includes the WCT Reservation Fee ($25.75 per person), WCT Overnight User Fee ($166.75 per person), Gordon River Ferry Fee ($28.00 per person), and the Nitinat Narrows Ferry Fee ($28.00 per person). There are three different fee structures:

Pachena Bay – Gordon River, or vice versa: $248.50 per person plus National Park Entry Fees ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group)
Pachena Bay – Nitinaht Village, or vice versa: $194.75 per person, plus Nitinaht Lake Water Taxi fees ($70.00 per person), plus National Park Entry Fees ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group)
Gordon River – Nitinaht Village, or vice versa: $222.75 per person, plus Nitinaht Lake Water Taxi fees ($70.00 per person), plus National Park Entry Fees ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group)

All WCT users must have a valid National Park Entry Pass ($11.00/day per adult or $22.00/day per family/ group) in addition to their WCT Overnight User Fee (Youth 17 and under are free). Hikers will need to check in to the WCT trailhead offices and show their valid National Park Entry passes and keep these passes on them during their hike.

Fees include all taxes, and are listed in Canadian funds.

From the Parks Canada website:

Reservations are mandatory
Campers can book their adventure by visiting reservation.pc.gc.ca or by calling 1-877-RESERVE (1-877-737-3783).
When making a reservation, have the following ready:
- preferred start dates – first choice and alternate dates;
- the number of hikers in your group;
- the names and emergency contacts for hikers;
- means of payment: Visa, MasterCard or American Express (see our Fees for information on West Coast Trail fees);
- the access point you plan to start from – Pachena Bay, Gordon River or Nitinaht Village; and
- an email address to send confirmation and orientation information.
Standby list
- Standby spaces are no longer available, all spaces are reservable.

Access

We began our West Coast Trail expedition out of Port Renfrew with low clouds and cool breezes. Every hiker on the Gordon River Ferry had a huge smile on their face. River otters ran along the opposite shore…our first wildlife sighting!

The West Coast Trail has three official entrance or exit points (trailheads): Pachena Bay (Bamfield), Gordon River (Port Renfrew) and Nitinat Village. The Nitinat entrance is a new addition and allows people to hike only half the trail if they desire.

Since the West Coast Trail is a thru-hike, trailhead transportation must be arranged in advance. Access to all trailheads is by vehicle (Pachena Bay and Gordon River) or vehicle plus ferry (Nitinat Lake). The roads near Pachena Bay and Nitinat Lake are rough and have logging traffic. We recommend paying for shuttle service.

West Coast Trail Express

Base: Victoria, BC
Website: trailbus.com
Phone: 1-250-477-8700 (Toll free: 1-888-999-2288)
Email: bus@trailbus.com
Schedule
Fares

West Coast Trail Express provides shuttle bus service (May 1 to September 30) from Victoria and Nanaimo to the trail heads and between the trail heads of the West Coast Trail. The West Coast Trail Bus picks up and drops off passengers at Victoria, Sooke, Port Renfrew, Gordon River, Mesachie Lake, Honeymoon Bay, Nanaimo, Nitinat Junction, Pachena Bay, and Bamfield. The West Coast Trail Express also services the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail.

Victoria to Gordon River Trailhead: $80 one-way
Victoria to Pachena Bay Trailhead: $120 one-way

Here are a few extra tips to make your shuttle journey flow well:

Have your backpack packed and “hike-ready” before boarding the shuttle.
Stow your trekking poles on or inside your pack.
Fill your water bottles and bring snacks for the ride.
Know where you want to be dropped off. Yes this sounds obvious, but there are many stops along the way and we observed lots of confused passengers. Luckily, the shuttle drivers are excellent, and make sure hikers get to their proper trailheads.
Assisting the driver in identifying and unloading your pack helps the process flow more smoothly for everyone. There are no baggage claim tickets and it’s amazing how many people have the same backpacks!

Accommodations

Bamfield is on the southeast shore of Barkley sound. This harbour town has many accommodation options, such as lodges or resorts. An excellent end to a big hike is a hot shower, warm meal, and cold drink!

Port Renfrew is close to the Gordon River Trailhead and Bamfield is close to the Pachena Bay Trailhead. Both towns have options for hotels and camping before and after your trip.

Port Renfrew Accommodations
Website: wildrenfrew.com

Bamfield Accommodations
Website: visitbamfield.ca

Pachena Bay Campground
Website: pachenabaycampground.ca

Weather

Fog was our frequent companion on the West Coast Trail. Sometimes the mist obscured our views of coastal landmarks or lighthouses. As northbound hikers, we kept the ocean on our left as we walked along the shoreline.

We study the weather before our trip using a few different resources. On trip we check weather daily with a satellite messenger. You will be hiking in a temperature marine climate. Be prepared for all kinds of weather!

Tides

Beach Access A was a great place to take a break before entering the forest. We solved a couple of tide problems to get here. Our reward was a final glimpse of the textured parallel lines of these tidal shelves.

Tide problems along the West Coast Trail involve headland cut-offs, surge channels, tidal creeks, and sandstone shelves under vertical cliffs. Beach terrain is rearranged every year from storm action. Plan accordingly by carrying tide tables and know how to use them. Parks Canada recommends Tofino (08615) tide tables.

North to South

Pachena Beach (0 km) to south (0.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Forest bypass option available.
Darling River (13.5 km) to Tsocowis Creek (17 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
Trestle Creek (20 km) to Klanawa River (23 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
Tsusiat Point (27 km). Hole-in-the-wall. Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
Dare Point (39 km) to Cribs Creek (41.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
West (43.5 km) to Carmanah Lighthouse (44 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
Bonilla Point (48 km) to Vancouver Point (51.5 km). Passable at tides below 3.0 m.
Vancouver Point (51.5 km) to Walbran Creek (53 km). Must be able to ford Walbran Creek. Passable at tides below 2.7 m. Taking the cable car over Walbran Creek commits you to the forest bypass option.
Beach Access A (65 km) to Thrasher Cove (69.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Except Owen Point (67 km). Passable at tides below 1.8 m. This is a difficult route with surge channels and many boulders.

South to North

Thrasher Cove (69.5 km) to Beach Access A (65 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Except Owen Point (67 km). Passable at tides below 1.8 m. This is a difficult route with surge channels and many boulders.
Walbran Creek (53 km) to Vancouver Point (51.5 km). Must be able to ford Walbran Creek. Passable at tides below 2.7 m. Taking the cable car over Walbran Creek commits you to the forest bypass option.
Vancouver Point (51.5 km) to Bonilla Point (48 km). Passable at tides below 3.0 m.
Carmanah Lighthouse (44 km) to west (43.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
Cribs Creek (41.5 km) to Dare Point (39 km). Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
Tsusiat Point (27 km). Hole-in-the-wall. Passable at tides below 2.1 m. Forest bypass option available.
Klanawa River (23 km) to Trestle Creek (20 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
Tsocowis Creek (17 km) to Darling River (13.5 km). Passable at tides below 2.7 m.
South (0.5 km) to Pachena Beach (0 km). Passable at tides below 2.4 m. Forest bypass option available.

Reference: Parks Canada West Coast Trail Map 2019

View updated tide tables for your trip dates:

Tofino (08615) – 7 day and hourly prediction tide tables provide predicted times and heights of the high and low waters.

Route

The easy trail from Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay still gave us a few ladders to climb. Our packs were lighter and our bodies were more conditioned. We climbed with smiles on our faces as we got closer to the trailhead!

The West Coast Trail is a challenging and strenuous coastal experience. The beach sections contain: logs, deep sand, wet sand, pea gravel, pebbles, tidal shelves, sloped surfaces, seaweed, algae, boulders, creeks, rocky headlands, sandstone, tide problems, and tidal creeks. All surfaces are potentially mobile and slippery like ice.

The rainforest sections have their own challenges: steep overland sections, blowdowns to crawl over or under, knee-deep mud, and slippery roots. There are also man-made wooden structures such as bridges, boardwalks, and ladder-systems in various states of decay. Forest entrances and campsites are marked with hanging floats.

Regardless of direction, 75 km over complex coastal and rainforest terrain is a physical and mental challenge for most hikers.

Here are some tips to help you move more efficiently through the terrain:

We find it safer to stow hiking poles on our backpacks when climbing up and down ladder systems. That means we have to collapse them first. This exercise can take a lot of time as it is repeated many times a day.
For better efficiency, practice collapsing and extending your poles. Also, practice attaching poles to the backpack with help from a hiking partner so you don’t have to remove your pack. Find out the best place on your backpack to stow them, utilizing either side pockets or straps, or both. Become familiar with your gear.
We use Black Diamond Distance Carbon FLZ Poles because they are adjustable, fairly lightweight, collapse quickly using a Z-fold, and re-extend in seconds. Telescoping poles, the kind you twist to loosen and telescope to collapse, seem to take longer to deal with.
The West Coast Trail is hard on trekking poles, no matter which brand you select. We have had pole breakage on every trip thus far! It usually happens when a pole gets stuck in the mud or between rocks and the hiker falls onto it. We always use two poles because if one breaks, we have a spare.

South to North vs North to South

The rock and boulder field between Thrasher Cove and Owen point spans a distance of about 3 km. This section takes hikers several hours to complete. Careful movement and slow steps ensure good progress.

We have hiked the West Coast Trail south to north and north to south. The advantage of hiking south to north or northbound (NOBO) is that more difficult terrain is completed in the first few days. The boulder field from Thrasher Cove to Owen Point and the ladder systems from Camper Creek to Walbran Creek are among the most challenging obstacles. The advantage of hiking north to south or southbound (SOBO) is the ability to condition your body on easier sections before the most challenging sections.

Campsites

Tent space was tight at the Cullite Creek campsite. We managed to find a waterfront perch that had all the amenities…a perfect resting spot before our trek to Carmanah.

There are 12 designated campsites along the West Coast Trail. All sites are located on beaches, and some are nicer than others. All campsites have outhouses, food lockers, and access to fresh water.

Thrasher Cove (70 km)

Thrasher Cove Camp is usually the first stop for northbound hikers starting from Gordon River. The site is small and crowded, but does the job. The wilderness feeling is a little lost here due to close proximity to Port Renfrew and boat traffic. If you are hiking north, the descent to Thrasher Cove will be your first multiple ladder system experience.

Camper Creek (62 km)

Camper Creek Camp is a large campsite situated by small Camper Bay. We’ve stopped for lunch twice on the expansive pebble beach. If Camper Creek is low, you don’t need the cable car. It looks like a great spot that can accommodate lots of hikers. There is a Trail Guardian Cabin at this site so if you need help, this is a good spot to get some. Many northbound hikers seem to stay here for their second night.

Cullite Creek (58 km)

We’ve stayed at Cullite Creek once. The site is a few hundred metres off the main trail on Cullite Cove. Because of geography, the beach nestled between sandstone cliffs can get crowded fast. Once the beach is full, there are sites across the gravel bar between the cable car and beach. If Cullite Creek is low, you don’t need the cable car.

Walbran Creek (53 km)

Walbran Creek Camp is a welcome place after a long day on the ladders. There is lots of room to spread out along the edge of the forest or the shore of the Walbran Creek lagoon. Camp further south on the pebbles for more privacy. You will be further from the water and amenities, but the extra walk is worth it. If Walbran Creek is low, you don’t need the cable car. If Walbran is unfordable, you must use the cable car and commit to a forest bypass route for a few kilometres. This spot is excellent for a mid-day break as you can take advantage of the pond for a swim.

Bonilla Creek (48 km)

We’ve often stopped at gorgeous Bonilla Creek Camp for snack breaks and stayed the night here for the first time in May, 2023. Some of the sites are situated in the cool forest just off the beach. This place has an excellent wilderness feel and views of sea stacks. A bonus feature is pretty Bonilla Falls. Highly recommended and less busy than other sites.

Carmanah Creek (46 km)

Carmanah Creek Camp is situated on a massive, open, sandy beach. This is Pacific Rim National Park at it’s finest. We’ve been fortunate to spend a night here and it’s one of our favourites. Even if you don’t camp, this beach is worth stopping at for a nice break. If Carmanah Creek is fordable, you can skip the cable car.

Cribs Creek (42 km)

Cribs Creek Camp has a huge, green creek running through it for excellent water. This can be a crowded site, so setting up camp further north will guarantee a bit more solitude. The beach has a fascinating natural breakwater feature that the river otters love. Sea lions like to congregate on a large offshore rock at Cribs…sometimes there is a fishy smell that blows into camp!

Tsusiat Falls (25 km)

Tsusiat Falls Camp is one of the most popular campsites on the trail. The camp is on a large, beautiful, sandy beach. The Tsusiat Falls is the defining feature of this campsite, with water levels changing over the season. It’s a popular place to wash off the hiking dirt with the rest of the hikers and the seagulls. Sunsets here are spectacular. We’ve stayed at the less crowded north and south ends of the beach. Most people crowd in the middle near the falls and food locker zones.

Klanawa River (23 km)

Klanawa is gorgeous site that would definitely be worth staying at. We stayed here overnight for the first time in May, 2023. It has a very wild feel with no other campers around. Most itineraries include a night at Tsusiat Falls. However, if you have an extra day to play with, and want to build in some rest time, this site is less populated and situated near the huge Klanawa River. If you have come from Tsusiat Falls and your gear is wet, this is a great spot to stop for a while and dry it in the sun.

Tsocowis Creek (16.5 km)

Another beautiful site, Tsocowis Creek has nice water and more solitude. There is also a Trail Guardian Cabin at this location. We’ve stopped at Tsocowis for breaks before the hiking the beach to Michigan Creek. If the sun is out, the northbound section can be a hot slog on sand, pea gravel and shelves. Tsocowis is great place to rest, snack, drink water, fill bottles, apply sunscreen, and fish out your sun hats.

Darling River (14 km)

We stop at Darling River Camp for breaks once and have considered staying because of the beautiful riverside location and cascading Darling Falls above a lovely green pool. Darling River floods quickly with rain and there is no cable car option. If you arrive here and can ford the river safely, it is advisable to do so rather than wait.

Michigan Creek (12 km)

Michigan Creek is similar to Thrasher Cove in that it is close to a trailhead and can therefore be crowded. Yet, there is a fair amount of space at the north end of the beach. Sunsets are spectacular here, with the dark silhouette of Pachena Point against a purple and orange sky. There is no cable car option across Michigan Creek; the crossing could be difficult or impossible with heavy rain. It’s a great spot to view the coast southeast all the way to Carmanah Point.

Here are some tips to enhance your camping experience:

We’ve observed that people tend to set up camp on top of each other. At most sites, solitude and privacy can be created. You may have to walk further to the outhouse or food locker but the small effort is worth it if you have the energy.
Food lockers can get crowded at the popular sites. We recommend eating early and stowing food bags before the late-comers arrive.
All fresh water should be properly treated before consumption. We collect as far upstream as possible. At Tsusiat Falls, we collect water from the falls itself, not the pool or the creek that flows from it! Too many people and seagulls take a bath there. Carmanah Creek also seems to have a large seagull population. Collecting water father upstream also avoids consuming brackish water (slightly salty water due to the mixing of seawater and creek water).

Trip Reports

The Nitinat Crab Shack is a famous West Coast Trail bottleneck. Hikers stop at this dock to share meals and cold drinks before or after crossing Nitinat Narrows. It felt good to take our packs off for a long break.

Gordon River to Pachena Bay – May 1-4, 2023
Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 14-20, 2022
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 31-August 6, 2022
Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 24-30, 2019
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – June 23-29, 2019
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 11-17, 2018
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 7-13, 2017
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 23-29, 2017
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 5-12, 2016
Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 17-22, 2015

Gordon River to Pachena Bay – May 1-4, 2023

Bonilla Point Camp has always beckoned, but it does not always fit into a classic 7-day itinerary. This time Bonilla was happily captured, included a spectacular spring sunset while meeting new friends from around the world.

Distance: 75 km
Duration: 4 days
Peak: 245 m
Gain: 1455 m
Route: CalTopo

I was delighted to hike the West Coast Trail during opening week. My tentative plan was to complete the trip solo in six days, visiting campsites outside my usual itinerary. In the end, I completed the trail in just four days, inspired by two lightweight backpackers, my new hiking buddies Anne and James, and very favourable trail conditions. I plan to make this May trip a yearly event, hopefully joined by similar enthusiasts. It was the perfect follow-up coastal expedition after a couple of training missions on the Juan de Fuca Trail!

Day 1: Gordon River to Camper Bay

The Gordon River Ferry transport northbound hikers from Port Renfrew to the Gordon River Trailhead. Nervous energy and eager anticipation will be quickly burned off during the first big ladder climb off the beach.

Distance: 14.9 km
Duration: 5 h 49 min
Peak: 229 m
Gain: 636 m
Track: Suunto

My plan for Day 1 was to hike from Gordon River to Camper Bay. The first West Coast Trail northbound backpackers marvelled at midsummer-like weather conditions: temperature 14.1ºC, humidity 53.4%, and calm winds. Twelve of us attended the 1000 h Parks Canada orientation session and learned about current hazards: slick surfaces, a small blowdown alder at 72 km, destroyed Thrasher Cove outhouse (leave no trace until next week), poles and fencing to protect falls down the “otter slide” near Beach Access B (avoid). The Gordon River ferry trip was energetic as always. The first ladder, tall and vertical, brought us off the beach and right into the fray. To my surprise, the trail was mostly dry from Gordon River to Beach Access B. I bypassed Thrasher Cove and the boulder field as my goal was speed and distance. There were of course a few puddles and moist log walks, punctuated with dilapidated boardwalk and mini mud bogs where drainage was poor. I enjoyed the beach section between Beach Access B (some missing rungs on the ladder) and Beach Access A. Sand stone architecture, receding tide, ocean breeze, and big breakers provided refreshing energy to power me over the last kilometres of the day. Birds dominated the wildlife observations: Pacific wrens, Steller’s jay, hummingbirds. I heard a rustling in the bushes east of Tristle Creek. Hollering out, the rustling evolved into crashing through woods. After descending the ladders down to Camper Creek, I took the cable car across for the first time. I was triumphant to be the first backpacker to Camper at 1630 h and had the pick of best campsites. The next Camper group arrived at 1830 h.

Day 2: Camper Bay to Bonilla Creek

The relatively new Logan Creek Suspension Bridge makes this high crossing a breeze. The previous ladder system was strenuous, and took a long time to navigate with a hammering heart!

Distance: 18.8 km
Duration: 7 h 34 min
Peak: 121 m
Gain: 382 m
Track: Suunto

My goal for Day 2 was to hike from Camper Creek to Bonilla Point. I woke to clear skies, no precipitation, and a dry tent! The overnight low temperature was 8.4ºC with a humidity of 73.2% and no wind. I left camp a little later than usual and climbed the Camper Creek ladders at 0925 h. My boots hit dry rainforest trail again, as new spring growth coloured the landscape in a vibrant green. Mammal signs included bear and wolf tracks, as well as several large piles of furry wolf scat on boardwalks. Our bird friends were back, with eagles soaring overhead. I even caught view of a tiny elusive Pacific wren bouncing in the forest undergrowth and singing his typewriter song. Sandstone Creek, a regular break spot, refreshed with cool air and pretty little waterfalls. Temperatures climbed into the mid-teens on the boardwalk through upland bogs. The famous mud “swimming pool” was dry and easily navigated. The Cullite Creek ladder system, one of the biggest on the West Coast Trail, had some weak rungs on descent. Again, a crossing of the creek by cable car was required for the first time. The new Logan Creek Suspension Bridge enables a faster crossing compared to the previous tilting-ladder roller coaster. Walbran Creek was the perfect spot for a break and to assess the water levels. Normally, a gravel bar forms a bridge for easy crossing. However, the spring creek was too high and I opted to take the stiff and slow cable car. An easy reroute around sea caves brought me back to the coast. I hiked the beach around Vancouver Point, looking for shipwreck debris, then made the final journey to Bonilla Creek Camp. I met up with Jesse from Geartrade.ca for the first time in person. He was travelling southbound on the opposite itinerary. We couldn’t have picked a better place to share trail stories, talk gear, and test out a new livestream collaboration in the field. The beautiful waterfall, amazing sunset, campfire, stars, and planet viewing made for a lovely spring evening with new friends.

Day 3: Bonilla Creek to Klanawa River

The Hole-in-the-Wall at Tsusiat Point is a welcome landmark no matter what itinerary you’re following. A raven forages on the beach here, croaking at me while I continue navigating the sloping sand and pebbles.

Distance: 29.7 km
Duration: 10 h 49 min
Peak: 63 m
Gain: 505 m
Track: Suunto

I had originally planned to hike from Bonilla Creek to Dare Beach today and have a rest, but conditions were excellent so I pushed on to Klanawa River. The night was warmer, with a low of 11.3ºC, 72.8% humidity, and another dry fly. I had a massive day ahead, so hiked out of Bonilla just before 0700 h with cool, overcast conditions. Carmanah Creek could have been forded with boots off, but I was determined to use every cable car on the West Coast Trail. The baleen whales joined me off Carmanah Point. After a quick visit to the Carmanah Light Station, I descending back to the beach. Wildlife rewards included green sea anemones ensconced in the sandstone tidal pools. I arrived at Cribs Creek Camp after a couple of hours and opted for the inland route. This decision was regrettable due to thick bushes. I had to crouch down and almost crawl along the high trail, ripping my shirt and scratching my arms. I recommend this segment be scheduled for pruning ASAP because the trail follows the cliff edge with limited visibility. The Dare Point area is worth exploration, seeking out shipwreck artifacts hidden throughout the sandstone landscape. With limited time to spare, I motored through the beautiful Cheewhat zone and onto smoother paths. Boardwalk highways transported me to Nitinaht Narrows. I had the honour of being the first NOBO hiker to visit the Crab Shack and celebrated with a feed of potatoes and cold bubbly drinks. While enjoying a chat with Shelly and Carl about all the work involved in setting up their operations for the summer. Time ticked on, and I hiked towards Hole-in-the-Wall and Tsusiat Falls for 1600 h. There were no other campers here…an incredible sight since Tsusiat is easily the busiest summer campsite on the West Coast Trail. Seeing whales off Tsusiat Point gave me the energy to press on to Kalanwa River. The big ladder south of the river had a missing rung about halfway down. I gathered fresh water from the south side because I wasn’t sure about fresh water availability at camp on the north side. The Klanawa River is wide and tidal, mixing with ocean water near the mouth. Finally, after yet another long, stiff, solo slow cable car effort, I arrived at camp exhausted after almost 11 hours of hiking. My new hiking buddies arrived shortly afterwards and we enjoyed more whale viewing during camp setup and dinner time.

Day 4: Klanawa River to Pachena Bay

Even though the north half of the west coast trail is considered easier than the south, strenuous ladder systems still appear. The Tsocowis Creek Ladders are long and high, but a wonderful break spot awaits at the bottom.

Distance: 23.5 km
Duration: 5 h 58 min
Peak: 130 m
Gain: 525 m
Track: Suunto

I could potentially finish this trip on Day 4 if I got moving early enough. My new lightweight fast packer friends would finish today, which motivated me to get off the trail sooner too. I experienced overcast skies at breakfast and no precipitation with an overnight low of 10.1ºC, humidity 79.8%, and calm wind. Unfortunately, the bugs found us at Klanawa. There must have been a hatching of little black flies on the river. I hustled along the coastal route towards Trestle Creek and into the forest above Valencia Bluffs. The famous red chairs beckoned for a quick rest as usual. I enjoyed the straight highway trail after the bluffs, making excellent time. The birds kept me company once again, most vocalizing their spring activities. I passed Tsocowis Creek at 0930 h, then Darling Creek at 1030 h. I sent a text to Michael at the West Coast Trail Express, inquiring about a Pachena Bay pickup. He held the last spot for me on the 1345 h shuttle. I hoofed it all the way out at 5.2 kph past the barking sea lions on the rocks. The tide was high at Pachena, so in a final effort, I navigated the last ladders on this trip very carefully. I made it to the Pachena Bay trailhead at 1320 h. There was just enough time for a quick change into a fresh t-shirt and socks. The shuttle transported me back to my waiting car in Gordon River by 1700 h. Not too bad for an early season trip: 75 km in 4 days and 3 nights!

It was a treat to have my pick of any campsite at Camper Creek, so I opted for a little pocket near the forest edge. Some may think a camp chair on a backpacking trip is a luxury, but for me it is a necessity!

The Sandstone Creek Bridge is an interesting landmark between Camper Creek and Cullite Creek. The water flows under the bridge over a flat sandstone landscape. Take care collecting water, the ground is slick with algae.

The upland mud bogs are famous collectors of deep mud puddles. The power of the natural elements is on display, as the man-made wooden structures are no match for the relentless rain, sun, and wind.

It is always worth the time to stop on the cliffs above Tsusiat Point and observe the seascape. Not only can you appreciate the distance travelled while resting for a few breaths, you may see a pod of whales swimming below.

The Klanawa River is so wide and deep that fording is not possible. Depending on what work the wind and waves have accomplished, a gravel bar bridge may reveal itself at the river mouth after a dry summer.

Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 14-20, 2022

A huge sea lion colony has claimed a large rocky territory just off Cribs Beach. Walking south at sunrise provided the opportunity to see, hear, and smell them. We love to start the hiking day on hard-packed sand!

Distance: 75 km
Duration: 7 days
Peak: 245 m
Gain: 1455 m
Route: CalTopo

Our second and final West Coast Trail trip of the season occurred August 14 to August 20. This adventure travelled the North to South direction. Our group of three enjoyed an incredible experience, finishing the trail in six of a planned seven days. We lost half our original team in the weeks leading up to departure due to injuries and other unforeseen circumstances. Highlights of the beautiful week included epic August weather, almost totally dry route conditions, lots of wildlife viewing, awe-inspiring scenery, and a ton of experiential learning.

Day 1: Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek

When hiking southbound, we keep the ocean on the right. Starting the trip at Pachena Bay provides a nice warm up for legs burdened with stuffed backpacks. A handmade painted sign marks access to the forest.

Distance: 13.7 km
Duration: 5 h 3 min
Peak: 132 m
Gain: 343 m
Track: Suunto

After only a week since returning from our northbound trip, we hit the highway to Pachena Bay. Our small group arrived at the trailhead office just in time for the 1000 h orientation. After receiving permits and maps, we completed a pack-fitting session and headed onto the beach. The weather was lovely, with partly cloudy skies, temperatures in the teens, light NW winds, and no precipitation. The first few kilometres were dry and freshly pruned. Meandering through rainforest on old skid roads was a pleasant way to start with heavy packs. The trail near the Pachena Light Station and over Pachena Point was muddy and slick. We arrived at Michigan Creek in just over 5 hours, happy to setup in a favourite campsite with sunny skies for an afternoon swim.

Weather observations. Sky: few-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 12.7-19.8ºC, Humidity: 53.0-78.1%, Wind: calm-light NW, Pressure: 1020.0-1022.3 mb.

Day 2: Michigan Creek to Tsusiat Falls

There is no cable car at the Darling River, and the obstacle must be forded. Water levels vary widely depending on rainfall and will occasionally force hikers to wait. We were lucky with shallow water and placed a makeshift log bridge for an easy crossing.

Distance: 15.6 km
Duration: 7 h 33 min
Peak: 64 m
Gain: 199 m
Track: Suunto

After a moonlit night at Michigan Creek, we woke to fog and wildlife. A black bear foraged in the intertidal zone and posed for everyone’s camera. Our team broke camp and departed just after 0800 h into the fog, hiking on a lowering morning tide. We enjoyed hard sand and dry flat rocks along the scenic coastal route. We passed the little rustic camp called Orange Juice Creek, then stopped at Tsocowis for a proper break and cold water fill. Energy restored, we climbed our first big ladders of trip. The inland route continued on graded paths, passing the famous Valencia outlook and old logging artifacts. After another break and water stop at Trestle Creek, we transitioned back to coastal terrain. We continued through patches of fog, hoping for a gravel bar or log crossing over Klanawa River. Unfortunately, the river course changed since our last trip and we ended up on the cable car. More ladders, boardwalks, and mud brought us to the busy camp at Tsusiat Falls.

Weather observations. Sky: obscured-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 10.9-18.1ºC, Humidity: 63.9-84.5%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1018.2-1022.0 mb.

Day 3: Tsusiat Falls to Cribs Creek

The long section between Tsusiat Falls and Cribs Creek required an early start. Cool fog is a frequent morning companion during the month of August, which is where the term “fogust” comes from.

Distance: 20.0 km
Duration: 8 h 29 min
Peak: 61 m
Gain: 334 m
Track: Suunto

Our group woke to another gorgeous day on the beach. After a breakfast meeting, we hiked the coastal route towards Tsusiat Point and through Hole-in-the-Wall. The sun rose against light fog and illuminated perfect tides. Our beach hiking continued to Tsuquadra Point, then inland to Nitinat Narrows for a ferry ride and the Crab Shack. We opted for a quick pop and chips instead of a heavy feast. After a short rest, we hit the boardwalks to Clo-oose and the Cheewhat Bridge. An inland path through cool rainforest was our preferred route in the heat. We dropped onto a short beach section and made it around the boulders just as the tide was coming in. A ladder took us up and above Dare Point and we enjoyed freshly pruned sections. The forest shaded our final walk to Cribs Creek Camp as we navigated a short stretch of bushy trail. Our longest distance of 17 km was rewarded with a refreshing swim.

Weather observations. Sky: obscured-scattered clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.8-22.5ºC, Humidity: 82.8-87.8%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1018.3-1019.8 mb.

Day 4: Cribs Creek to Walbran Creek

Carmanah Creek is a favourite campsite due to fewer people, a massive sand beach, and reliable water. We encountered a small black bear foraging in the bushes amongst driftwood beside the camp.

Distance: 13.5 km
Duration: 5 h 38 min
Peak: 54 m
Gain: 68 m
Track: Suunto

We woke up early to more epic summer weather. Crystal clear skies, perfect temperatures, and no precipitation. Seeing the famous Cribs sea lion colony on the haul-out rocks was an excellent start to a day of wildlife viewing. We checked out the rich intertidal life on sandstone shelves west of Carmanah Light Station. These tide pools are usually full of giant green anemones and purple urchins. A coast guard helicopter landing at the lighthouse buzzed overhead as we passed. The keeper told us that whales were spotted recently and instructed us to keep our eyes open. We dropped back down to Carmanah Beach and saw a little black bear foraging in the salal bushes around camp. The massive seagull colony enjoyed their spa time in the creek. The day continued to grow hotter as we hiked past lovely Bonilla Point and onto Vancouver Point. We leap-frogged from one shady rest spot to the next, arriving at Walbran Creek for freshwater swims and more whale spotting news.

Weather observations. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 11.5-27.8ºC, Humidity: 71.0-91.8%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1014.1-1019.8 mb.

Day 5: Walbran Creek to Camper Bay

Some of the best campsites at Walbran Creek are located upstream. Most people cluster in the main beach zone, but up here you can find a quieter spot with sunset silhouettes and sea caves.

Distance: 12.8 km
Duration: 7 h 43 min
Peak: 119 m
Gain: 313 m
Track: Suunto

The theme of sunny skies, warm air, and no precipitation continued. Departing Walbran Creek at 0740 h, we headed south towards Camper Bay, experiencing a transition from coastal beaches to rainforest hiking. The group was now conditioned for the bigger ladder systems and deep drainages. We worked our way through roots and broken boardwalks up into the upland bogs. The big new Logan Creek suspension bridge was a treat before more ups and downs across Cullite Creek and Sandstone Creek. We paused for breaks and water refills at all the creeks and enjoyed fresh sea breezes in the canyons. The team moved across dry roots and rocks at an efficient pace, slowing for the tedious muddy sections, some of which never dry out. Our final decent down to Camper Bay was rewarded with fresh water swimming after almost 8 hours of rainforest obstacles.

Weather observations. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.9-27.9ºC, Humidity: 57.1-90.1%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1012.4-1013.7 mb.

Day 6-7: Camper Bay to Gordon River

The 70 km marker is a critical junction. The southbound hiker must decide to either climb down ladders to Thrasher Cove Camp, or continue onto Gordon River Trailhead. We opted to hike on through and complete the trail in 6 days!

Distance: 16.1 km
Duration: 11 h 22 min
Peak: 236 m
Gain: 635 m
Track: Suunto

After a lightning show and distant rumbles overnight, we were happy to depart early at 0730 h. We moved up and down ladders in the dark forested hillside, enjoying tree cover while a stiff wind and light showers passed overhead. Later in the morning, our team enjoyed gentler paths to Beach Access A. We dropped onto the sandstone shelves for a final coastal hike over eroded sedimentary features with beautiful ocean views. The skies parted, revealing better weather as we hiked back up Beach Access B and inland to Thrasher junction. This classic West Coast Trail section is comprised of mangled roots, rotten bridges, and precarious log walks. We decided to hike straight on through to Gordon River. After 11.5 hours, we arrived at the final vertical ladder and finished the trail in 6 days. We caught the first ferry the next morning, after spending a night at the Gordon River Trailhead.

Weather observations. Sky: broken clouds-overcast, Precipitation: nil-light rain, Temperature: 15.6-20.9ºC, Humidity: 82.1-97.1%, Wind: moderate SW-calm, Pressure: 1012.0-1016.7 mb.

Michigan Creek is a gorgeous campsite to watch sunsets. The trees of Pachena Point create that classic west coast silhouette and the low tide pools mirror the brilliant colours of the sky.

At Michigan Creek, we like camping north of the creek. People typically crowd around near the food lockers and outhouses. You may have to walk a bit father, but you can find a more secluded spot with a little effort.

The boardwalk sections around Nitinat Narrows are typically fresh and in good condition. Maintenance of these wooden structures is a never-ending project, as the wet environment takes its annual toll.

Ladders become good friends on the West Coast Trail. These structures can be intmidating, but are appreciated considering the alternatives. After the first few climbs, the body adapts to the effort and the exposure.

Sunsets at Walbran Creek are a welcome reward after a long day of beach hiking. The sun, hot and unrelenting on our hats earlier, melted like a golden coin on the horizon, sinking and squishing into the cool mist.

Gordon River to Pachena Bay – July 31-August 6, 2022

This is how we like to start a West Coast Trail trip! Sunny skies, smiling faces, and clean clothes. The short ferry trip across Gordon River is where northbound hikers experience peak anticipation.

Distance: 75 km
Duration: 7 days
Peak: 245 m
Gain: 1455 m
Route: CalTopo

I guided a wonderful group of five hikers on the West Coast Trail from July 31 to August 6. We were delighted for the dry paths and minimal mud puddles after a wet start to the season. We basked in sunshine for five of seven days with one rainy day and some marine fog to keep our tent flies damp. All our guided trips are rich in experiential learning, and this week provided many opportunities.

Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove

Thrasher Cove is a narrow beach with tents usually crunched near each other. We always try to find the most secluded campsites on our trips. This peaceful suppertime view of foggy Port Renfrew hides the camping chaos on the busier side of beach.

Distance: 7.4 km
Duration: 4 h 54 min
Peak: 230 m
Gain: 439 m
Track: Suunto

Our team had an excellent start to our week-long backpacking trip. We arrived at the West Coast Trail Information Centre in Gordon River, checked in, attended the Parks Canada orientation session, and received our overnight use permits. The ferry transported us to our first obstacle: a giant vertical ladder. Weather and route conditions were excellent with warm air and dry mud. We made it to Thrasher Cove in just under 5 hours at a relaxed pace, enjoying shady forest bumps. After the final big ladders, we arrived at the beach. We were delighted to find the secluded east camp zone empty of people. Our team grabbed 5-star accommodations and enjoyed a sunny ocean swim.

Weather observations. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 12.7-23.1ºC.

Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay

One of our favourite northbound sections is the hike between Owen Point and Beach Access A. With the strenuous boulder field behind us, we enjoyed flat sandstone shelves before rejoining the rainforest paths.

Distance: 10.0 km
Duration: 6 h 29 min
Peak: 88 m
Gain: 144 m
Track: Suunto

The Thrasher Boulders lived up to their reputation. Our first wake-up and camp break-down was smooth. We aimed for an 0800 h departure, taking advantage of the low tide around Owen Point. Thick marine fog and constant mist made for slick surfaces and slower steps. We managed the boulder problems with only a couple of scratches and one broken trekking pole. Seeing the emerald Owen Point sea caves was worth the effort. After a photo break, we continued along the sandstone shelves, avoiding surge channels and the infamous otter slide. With tides in our favour, we opted to take Beach Access A back into the forest. The route offered us boardwalks and the first real mud of the trip. After a few more kilometres, we arrived at Camper Bay in just under 6.5 hours. We appreciated arriving at camp in the early afternoon, with plenty of time to setup gear and practice fire building.

Weather observations. Sky: obscured-overcast, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.0-18.4ºC.

Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek

Boggy mud pits with dilapidated boardwalks are frequent obstacles on the West Coast Trail. Avoiding the mud takes fancy footwork, and usually does not work in the end. Best to hike right on through!

Distance: 13.3 km
Duration: 7 h 27 min
Peak: 126 m
Gain: 342 m
Track: Suunto

After an 0800 h departure from Camper Bay, we started our most strenuous day. The section between Camper Bay and Cullite Creek offers some of the biggest ladder systems on the trail. We enjoyed the new Logan Creek suspension bridge span. The trail was muddy, and we encountered rotted and deteriorating boardwalks. The tough sections were broken up with nicer route conditions across open and breezy upland bogs. This unique ecosystem presented opportunities to identify plants and interpret ecology. We were excited to find carnivorous sundews glistening in the sunshine, waiting for unsuspecting insects. We arrived at Walbran Creek Camp after 7.5 hours of effort. Once again, we obtained the best campsite. The guys were “three for three” on five-star camping and “two for two” on swimming pools right off the front porch. Our team celebrated Walbran Creek, a milestone marking the end of the more difficult forest sections.

Weather observations. Sky: overcast-broken clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.2-19.5ºC.

Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek

Wilderness navigation skills are required for coastal routes. As north-bounders, we kept the ocean on the left. However, we still checked our map frequently for information on tide problems, features, and forest access points.

Distance: 12.4 km
Duration: 4 h 27 min
Peak: 56 m
Gain: 53 m
Track: Suunto

We experienced real West Coast Trail rain today. Departing Walbran Creek just before 0800 h, we were first out of camp in the northbound group. Skies were overcast with light showers and a southerly breeze. We easily forded Walbran Creek and continued along the coastline. Conditions became soggier, so we increased our pace. After another easy ford of Carmanah Creek, we passed the usual massive flock of seagulls. This beach is always a favourite, with hard-packed sand and gorgeous views. Our hopes of nibbles at Nytom’s (previously Chez Monique’s) were dashed when we came upon a dilapidated driftwood structure where the restaurant used to be. We continued up to the Carmanah Light Station and passed through the yard, taking the low tide route down onto the shelves. The team was treated to amazing tide pools full of purple urchins and green sea anemones. The last couple of kilometres flew by. We arrived at Cribs Creek Camp after only 4.5 hours of hiking. The forecasted light precipitation turned into moderate rain. Tarps were rigged just in time to create a dry sheltered area for the group.

Weather observations. Sky: overcast-obscured, Precipitation: light-heavy rain, Temperature: 11.9-15.1ºC.

Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls

The Cheewaht River Bridge is a beautiful structure, encountered after one of our favourite long beach sections. The water is brackish and undrinkable, so we usually pull fresh water from a marked spring on the north side of bridge.

Distance: 18.3 km
Duration: 9 h 6 min
Peak: 59 m
Gain: 377 m
Track: Suunto

The rains eased overnight and we broke camp under clearing skies. Our longest day started with hiking the Cribs breakwater and taking the low tide route around Dare Beach. We discovered shipwreck artifacts and amazing intertidal wildlife. Eventually we were forced off the sandstone shelves, up the ladders, and onto the trail towards Cheewhat River. Lots of fresh brushing made for an enjoyable hike, even with the occasional splash of mud. Although the day’s terrain was easier, there were still slippery sections to navigate. The Cheewhat River suspension bridge offered the perfect picture opportunity before we quickly hiked the next few kilometres. We arrived at Nitinat Narrows and the Crab Shack before noon. The guys enjoyed the first reward of the day…a lazy two hour lunch stop. After the ferry crossing, we continued (slower with full bellies) to Tsusiat Falls. Our second reward was a fresh shower in the falls.

Weather observations. Sky: overcast-few clouds, Precipitation: light rain-nil, Temperature: 11.9-18.3ºC.

Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek

Boardwalks are a prominent feature of the West Coast Trail. The wet rainforest environment is relentless on the wood and they require constant maintenance. You will observe everything from rotten boards to brand new planks.

Distance: 13.5 km
Duration: 6 h 4 min
Peak: 66 m
Gain: 193 m
Track: Suunto

We departed our secluded camp on the west side of Tsusiat Falls just before 0800 h. Not many hikers know about a secret outhouse and food locker tucked into bushes nearby. After a few warm-up ladders, we filled our water bottles above the falls. The guys were in high gear for a day of rainforest paths, messy mud holes, spectacular coastal stretches, and several graded trail sections on the way to Michigan Creek. The sunny morning was broken by a few fog banks, keeping us cool for long slogs over soft surfaces. We constantly explored the most efficient walking lines. The receding tide exposed hard sandstone shelves that were a welcome change from coarse sand and gravel. The final few kilometres between Tsocowis Creek and Michigan Creek were tough in the hot midday sun. We arrived at camp in 6 hours, and were happy to setup in a final five-star spot near shady trees.

Weather observations. Sky: clear-obscured, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 9.5-20.5ºC.

Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay

This is how we like to end a West Coast Trail trip! Sunbeams on the ground and faces still smiling. The boots and gaiters were coated in mud, but we still finished an awesome week at the Pachena Bay trailhead in decent condition.

Distance: 12.0 km
Duration: 3 h 45 min
Peak: 119 m
Gain: 329 m
Track: Suunto

Our team enjoyed a beautiful last evening on the beach, with clear weather and camping under the stars. We also saw our first two black bears of the trip. One bear ambled around the driftwood at the west end of beach, and another at the Michigan Creek mouth. We broke camp and started hiking one hour earlier at 0700 h. The guys were on fire and shattered the MB Guiding record from Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay, finishing the last 12 km of trail in 3 hours and 45 minutes! Perhaps the speed was due to all the Parks Canada “cougar and bear in the area” warning signs posted along the way. We arrived in Pachena Bay at 1045 h for our finish line photos. There was plenty of time before our 1300 h West Coast Trail Express private shuttle for a visit to the Pachena Campground store and a final ocean swim. Mission accomplished!

Weather observations. Sky: clear-few clouds, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 10.8-25.7ºC.

One of the most striking features of the West Coast Trail is the natural breakwater at Cribs Creek Camp. Low tide in the morning allowed us to take the preferred beach route. We often watch river otters swim this rocky maze.

We like to take breaks at interesting viewpoints to watch for whales and track our progress. The Olympic Peninsula started out as our constant friend, but it soon fell back into the distance behind us.

By the time northbound hikers see the Hole-in-the-Wall at Tsusiat Point, they are usually very tired indeed. The feature is a reward for many kilometres of hot and sunny pebble hiking, with camp lying just beyond.

When the tide is low at Pachena Bay, we always finish with the beach route. Not only does this option avoid the last few tall ladders, but flat sand and sweeping views are welcome rewards for a vigorous week.

Pachena Bay to Gordon River – August 24-30, 2019

The kilometres between Beach Access A and Thrasher Cove were new for everyone on our first southbound trip. Dry conditions and wooden bridges made this forest section enjoyable.

Distance: 75 km
Duration: 7 days
Peak: 235 m
Gain: 1534 m
Route: CalTopo

Our second West Coast Trail adventure of season was our first trip in the southbound direction! A full team of seven participants showed up to challenge themselves in our coastal rainforest. Super dry conditions, a rare wildlife viewing opportunity, and new trail sections for us made this trip memorable.

Route

The near constant moisture in a coastal rainforest claims all wooden structures eventually. Overland bog sections are an obstacle course of rotting boardwalk and deep mud puddles.

Day 1: Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek. Distance: 13.13 km, Duration: 5:02’10, Peak: 129 m. Ascent: 253 m, Ascent time: 1:04’05, Descent: 241 m, Descent time: 1:09’38. Suunto
Day 2: Michigan Creek to Tsusiat Falls. Distance: 14.69 km, Duration: 8:04’09, Peak: 64 m. Ascent: 135 m, Ascent time: 0:33’04, Descent: 125 m, Descent time: 0:38’26. Suunto
Day 3: Tsusiat Falls to Cribs Creek. Distance: 19.27 km, Duration: 9:26’49, Peak: 63 m. Ascent: 232 m, Ascent time: 1:19’37, Descent: 232 m, Descent time: 1:20’57. Suunto
Day 4: Cribs Creek to Walbran Creek. Distance: 13.50 km, Duration: 6:47’12, Peak: 52 m. Ascent: 46 m, Ascent time: 0:11’24, Descent: 52 m, Descent time: 0:06’18. Suunto
Day 5: Walbran Creek to Camper Bay. Distance: 12.17 km, Duration: 7:58’57, Peak: 129 m. Ascent: 276 m, Ascent time: 1:05’03, Descent: 249 m, Descent time: 0:43’52. Suunto
Day 6: Camper Bay to Thasher Cove. Distance: 10.43 km, Duration: 5:53’27, Peak: 167 m. Ascent: 235 m, Ascent time: 1:20’01, Descent: 234 m, Descent time: 0:55’47. Suunto
Day 7: Thasher Cove to Gordon River. Distance: 6.63 km, Duration: 4:10’32, Peak: 235 m. Ascent: 357 m, Ascent time: 1:19’57, Descent: 387 m, Descent time: 1:29’45. Suunto

Weather

A perfect sandy beach greets the southbound hiker on the morning walk out of Cribs Creek Camp. We always look for wolf tracks at this time of the day, evidence of nighttime animal activity.

Day 1: Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek. Sky: scattered, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 16.2-27.0ºC, Humidity: 49.8-83.9%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1017.3 mb.
Day 2: Michigan Creek to Tsusiat Falls. Sky: fog, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.7-20.8ºC, Humidity: 66.9-95.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1023.1 mb.
Day 3: Tsusiat Falls to Cribs Creek. Sky: fog, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 10.8-19.2ºC, Humidity: 72.1-100.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1023.8 mb.
Day 4: Cribs Creek to Walbran Creek. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 9.7-26.5ºC, Humidity: 40.7-100.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1019.7 mb.
Day 5: Walbran Creek to Camper Bay. Sky: clear, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.6-23.4ºC, Humidity: 57.6-98.2%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1011.6 mb.
Day 6: Camper Bay to Thasher Cove. Sky: fog, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 13.6-24.0ºC, Humidity: 59.3-100.0%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1015.1 mb.
Day 7: Thasher Cove to Gordon River. Sky: broken, Precipitation: nil, Temperature: 16.2-20.0ºC, Humidity: 77.7-99.4%, Wind: calm, Pressure: 1017.1 mb.

Wildlife

Seagulls love hanging around the mouth of Carmanah Creek. Every time we pass by this spot, we notice a giant flock of these large birds has gathered to rest, feed, or splash in the creek.

Wildlife sightings were abundant on our southbound trip. A few hours into our hike to Michigan Creek, a participant saw a black bear cub up in a tree. Soon the mother walked onto the trail. We watched and waited for several minutes until the pair safely reunited and bounded into the forest. The tide pools were packed with animals as always: sea anemones, crabs, snails, sculpins.

Seagulls were the dominant bird of the trip. Massive colonies gathered near the mouths of all the big creeks. The Walbran group was particularly huge. Hundreds of gulls squared and bathed well into the evening. At sunset, a few flew away to sea. Soon after, the entire flock followed. In the morning, the gulls returned to Walbran Creek to rest. The Carmanah Creek seagull colony was also massive, with white feathers carpeting the packed sand. Ravens croaked in the early mornings, acting as alarm clock. We observed a few bald eagles patrol the beaches. Being late summer as opposed to the spring breeding season, the forest was mostly quiet. A few Pacific wrens still sang their typewriter song, out from under decayed logs and mossy thickets. One or two Steller’s jays screeched at us as we hiking through their territories.

Large marine mammals were spotted with excitement. The established sea lion colony was visible from the beach near Cribs Creek. Our best marine mammal viewing occurred approximately 1 km northwest of Vancouver Point on route to Walbran Creek. We were hot and tired from hours of exposed beach slogging. One of our participants noticed a grey whale feeding about 50 m from shore. The best kind of whale viewing is when you can watch the animal from land. This special experience renewed our energy to push onward to Walban Creek Camp.

Hazards

Michigan Creek Camp is located on a small, pebbly beach. The rocks and boulders grow larger around the mouth of the creek, but the water ford is usually easy in the dry summer months.

Dehydration and heat exhaustion were the greatest hazards on beach hiking days. There was ample drinking water so we took every opportunity to rehydrate. The West Coast Trail ladders are a unique obstacle compared with other coastal trips. We encountered one ladder down to Cribs Creek from the Dare Beach cliffs that had a few missing rungs. The cliffs above Dare Beach also had big exposure for a decent stretch. Tripping is not an option in this section. Roots, rocks, boulders, and tidal shelves were slippery and tackled with care.

Notes

The closer you get to the main trailheads, the more likely you are to see Parks Canada post about bears in the area. Beach Access B is on the way to Thrasher Cove over sketchy boardwalk sections.

Completing our first southbound West Coast Trail trip was several years in the making. We have always hiked the trail northbound for the simple reason of wanting to finish the most technical sections at the beginning of the trip. Our pack weights were only 5-10 pounds lighter for these harder southern sections, but the extra mental and physical conditioning from the northern sections gave us strength and confidence.

Sandy and flat Pachena Bay is the perfect start to a southbound West Coast Trail trip. If the tide is low enough, hikers may bypass the first ladder systems by opting to take the beach route.

Tsusiat Falls Beach is pebbly and bordered by sandstone cliffs. West Coast Trail hikers can find secluded campsites towards the north or south ends of the beach.

It is best practice to collect drinking water above the falls, as opposed to the pool below. The long ladder system makes this option less desirable, so we collect our water from the falls itself.

Northbound and southbound hikers meet at the Nitinat Narrows Crab Shack. Prepare to stay for at least an hour, swapping stories of wildlife sightings and learning about trail conditions.

Hikers encounter the beautiful Cheewhat River suspension bridge at 36 km in the southbound direction. The water in the Cheewhat is tidal and too brackish to collect for drinking water.

The beach at Cribs Creek Camp is massive, providing many options for pitching your tent. The sunset-friendly, high tide safe zone south of the creek includes a maze of beach logs to navigate.

Visitors are encouraged to sign the Carmanah Point Light Station guest book. This Coast Guard highlight of the West Coast Trail receives hundreds of international people each year.

Bonilla Creek Camp is a wonderful spot to take a break from exposed beach hiking in the hot afternoon sun. A small waterfall supplies refreshing drinking water, while cool shade is abundant.

Walbran Creek, with its sandstone cliffs and trees above, is a beautiful spot to take sunset photos. Sea gulls favour this creek and tend to hang out in the main pool until the sky goes orange.

Gordon River to Pachena Bay – June 23-29, 2019

Thrasher Cove is a small sandy campsite 5 km west of the Gordon River trailhead. Northbound hikers depart from Thrasher to tackle the boulder field on route to the Owen Point sea caves.

Distance: 75 km
Duration: 7 days
Peak: 230 m
Gain: 1453 m
Route: CalTopo

Our first group of the season hiked the West Coast Trail in the northbound direction. The team included four keen adventurers from near and far. With good luck we enjoyed more solitude, with half-full campgrounds (and food lockers) and a lower number of hikers on the trail. We also had all kinds of weather!

Route

Hiking around Owen Point into other-worldly sandstone formations. The terrain opens up along the shelves with spectacular views of the Olympic Peninsula and Pacific Ocean.

Day 1: Gordon River to Thrasher Cove. Distance: 7.38 km, Duration: 5:49’42, Peak: 230 m. Ascent: 334 m, Ascent time: 1:36’20, Descent: 320 m, Descent time: 1:28’51. Suunto
Day 2: Thrasher Cove to Camper Bay. Distance: 9.96 km, Duration: 8:16’47, Peak: 81 m. Ascent: 123 m, Ascent time: 0:27’55, Descent: 74 m, Descent time: 0:21’05. Suunto
Day 3: Camper Bay to Walbran Creek. Distance: 12.34 km, Duration: 8:24’19, Peak: 103 m. Ascent: 239 m, Ascent time: 1:05’24, Descent: 240 m, Descent time: 1:18’10. Suunto
Day 4: Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek. Distance: 13.59 km, Duration: 6:37’16, Peak: 50 m. Ascent: 47 m, Ascent time: 0:13’43, Descent: 53 m, Descent time: 0:08’43. Suunto
Day 5: Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls. Distance: 20.47 km, Duration: 10:27’43, Peak: 58 m. Ascent: 278 m, Ascent time: 1:16’21, Descent: 272 m, Descent time: 1:23’07. Suunto
Day 6: Tsusiat Falls to Michigan Creek. Distance: 15.59 km, Duration: 8:06’01, Peak: 65 m. Ascent: 176 m, Ascent time: 0:54’18, Descent: 175 m, Descent time: 0:56’40. Suunto
Day 7: Michigan Creek to Pachena Bay. Distance: 12.67 km, Duration: 4:12’55, Peak: 125 m. Ascent: 256 m, Ascent time: 1:14’05, Descent: 250 m, Descent time: 1:08’35. Suunto

Weather

Walbran Creek spills into the Pacific Ocean as sunset creates silhouettes of clouds, sandstone cliffs, and trees. The beach formation changes over the season, requiring some hikers to ford the creek.

We enjoyed perfect weather and dry route conditions on the first half of the trip. Dusty trails were normal and sticky surfaces made for easier movement over the rough sections. The upland bogs and rainforest ecosystems looked wilted and crisp. True to form, we got a real West Coast Trail hammering of heavy precipitation on day five. The water replenished the creeks and soaked the thirsty bogs…and us! By day six, the trail and our socks were drying out again.

Wildlife

When they occur, whale viewings are a special experience on the West Coast Trail. The trail sections between Tsusiat Falls and Tsocowis Creek include many high points to look for spouts.

For the first half of the trip, wildlife viewings were limited to small mammals, rainforest arthropods, and mollusks. We observed frequent birds between Gordon River and Walbran Creek. By day four, we were pleased to spot many sea lions and whales moving along the coastline. Whale sightings became routine at almost every viewpoint and campground from Nitinat Narrows to Michigan Creek! To top off these marine mega fauna sightings, we observed a black bear on our last night at Michigan Creek Camp.

When the tide is low, hikers can walk all the way to Beach Access A on the sandstone shelves. Abundant marine life is visible in the linear tide pools that criss-cross the seaweed surface layer.

Forest sections of the West Coast Trail present an endless series of obstacles. Sometimes, there are two options for movement: the high route on top of logs, or the low route through the mud.

Boardwalks are a common structure on the West Coast Trail. Hikers walk the wooden planks in all states of decay. Brand new boards quickly dissolve into the mud, reclaimed by the coastal rain forest.

For northbound hikers, Walbran Creek Camp marks the end of the hardest sections of the West Coast Trail. The “corner suite” site offers the best views for sunset and creek-side wildlife watching.

Walbran Creek Camp is a welcome resting spot after a few days of strenuous northbound hiking. The corner site perched on the pebble berm offers excellent views and fresh ocean breezes.

The trail section between Walbran Creek and Cribs Creek offers long stretches of flat beach hiking. Northbound hikers keep the ocean on the left as they move over pebbles and soft sand.

Carmanah Creek empties into the Pacific through the middle of a long sandy beach. Sometimes the creek spreads shallow for an easy ford. Other times, hiking boots come off to make the crossing.

The coastal rainforest displays all possible shades of green with its rich vegetation. On hot summer afternoons, the shade of the trees provides welcome relief for tired hikers

Tsusiat Falls is a popular campsite on the West Coast Trail. Most people camp near the base of the falls, but there are many spots further north or south if you desire a quieter experience.

Sea caves are interesting geologic features on the West Coast Trail. Mechanical erosion is the main process that forms the hole. Wave action on repeat over years shapes the coastal landscape.

The Klanawa River is a deep, green, wide water body that usually requires a cable car to cross. Sometimes, winter storms create a natural stone “bridge” for hikers to walk on over.

Gordon River to Pachena Bay – August 11-17, 2018

The West Coast Trail rainforest terrain consists of dirt, roots, mud, ladders, bridges, and logs. Heavy rainfall promotes decay of wooden structures. Our team tackled these obstacles with care.

Distance: 74.8 km
Duration: 7 days
Peak: 205 m
Gain: 1616 m
Route: CalTopo

Our 2018 West Coast Trail trip was a great shared experience with an adventurous family group! Weather was perfect for hiking with cool mornings and warm afternoons almost every day. The high temperature was 28ºC and low temperature was 13ºC. There was no precipitation except for a bit of fog mist a few days and nights. Winds were generally calm to light northwest. Air pressure was between 1013 and 1021 hPa. We noticed some smoke from the BC wildfires for most of the trip. Route conditions were generally dry with minimal mud. Wildlife viewing included: seals, river otters, sea lions, black bears, eagles, ravens, crows, herons, thrushes, jays, and lots of marine life like sea anemones, starfish, and molluscs in the intertidal zones.